Starting from George take the N12 towards Oudtshoorn.  As you drive up the Outeniqua Pass enjoy the soft green folds of the mountains, because soon you will leave it behind  you.  Once you have reached the top of the pass and descend on the other side into the Waboomskraal valley the Klein Karoo slowly unfolds all its secrets.  Take the Oudtshoorn turn-off as soon as you exit the Waboomskraal valley.

As you approach Oudtshoorn you will notice the blue haze of the Swartberg mountains on the horizon.  In winter it will be dusted with some snow and in summer the fynbos will be in full bloom.  There are several things to do in and around the town of Oudtshoorn, but we will be heading to Prince Albert via the Swartberg mountains.  Take the R328 out of town and follow the road through Schoemanshoek to the Cango Caves and the mountains. The route via the Swartberg mountains is a gravel road, which can sometimes be very rough, but is always very spectacular.  

We recommend that you plan your day to have lunch in Prince Albert and allow some time to visit some of the finest olive and fig farms, wineries and art galleries in the region.  Remember that this is a small town and some of the establishments might not be open on a Sunday so plan accordingly but what we can vouch for is that African Relish surely serves the best pizza in Prince Albert!

A Saturday morning is a good time to visit as you will catch the local market and the Fransie Pienaar museum open where you will find an interesting pamphlet about all the different gable styles of Prince Albert. Take a walk or drive through town and identify them all.

To complete your circle route return via the tarred road (R407), passing Klaarstroom, back to George. Stop at the Klaarstroom Hotel to get something cold (or hot if you travel in winter) and most of the time you will meet some interesting people at the hotel.

This tar route is (R407) a bit longer than the Swartberg route, but it takes you through the impressive Meiringspoort which changes it face many times a day depending where the shadows fall.  Allow some time to stop in the poort to admire the rock formations or take a walk to the waterfall and discover Herrie se klip. 

Continue with the  N12 past ostrich farms and feather palaces to Oudtshoorn and head back via the Outeniqua pass to George.  It is worthwhile to travel the N12 between George and Oudtshoorn in both directions as you will notice some different scenery going each way. 

oOo

Distance from George via Swartberg pass: 135 km (R328 – gravel)

Distance from George via Klaarstroom: 172 km (R407 – tar)

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The town is surrounded with fynbos, ericas and buchu is growing wild.  Fynbos  is also one of the main export products of the area.  Buchu is that  very distinctive smell that you get when you approach Riversdale on the N2.  The  natural beauty of the area is also  very popular with hikers and boasts several hiking trails at Boosmansbos and Grootvaderbosch.

To the north the Garcia pass (R323) links Riversdale with Ladismith in the Klein Karoo.  It is also a Thomas Bain pass where he used convict labour.  After Bain completed the Tradouw pass 107 convicts were transferred to the Garcia pass.  However, things did not progress without problems.  Most of the convicts were either old or sick and progress was slow.  This surely put Bain to the test as he had his hands and mind full with Cogmagnskloof and Pakhuis pass.  The pass was named after Maurice Garcia, an 1820 settler of Jewish-Portuguese descent.    The pass is about 17 kilometres with several bends.  It is not a busy road so take the time to pull over at the viewpoints to drink in the scenery.   You will not be disappointed.

We also discovered a little stone church designed by the famous Sophy Gray.  From my previous post you would have noticed that I am on a mission to tick the boxes on her church list.  Read more about her other churches in the Garden Route @ Day-trip-from-George-Sophy-Grays-footsteps

For the train enthusiasts there is a Class 7 steam locomotive parked in the centre of town in front of the municipality.  I always wonder how they get it there as it ways tonnes. 

There were a couple of famous people who either were born or grew up here and put the town on the map.  Who are they?  Dalene Matthee, author of several books on the Knysna forest attended the local High School.  She was also laid to rest in the Knysna forest where you can visit her memorial.  Willem Botha a younger singer and actor.  Dr Cecil Moss who was a qualified medical doctor (anesthetist) who was part of the medical team who removed the heart from the first heart transplant donor.  He was also vice-captain of the Springboks in1949 and head coach for South Africa from 1982 to 1989.  CJ Langenhoven, another famous author and father of the Afrikaans language, also spent two years of his school life in Riversdale. 

We ended our exploring trip at the old jail, now turned into a cute little coffee shop, (S 34° 05.490 E 021° 15.788) that has an interesting story.   During 1860 the government bought the the premises from the Barry family and turned the trading store into a police station, court and jail all on one site.  The jail warden also lived on site.  The only execution ever in Riversdale also took place in this complex.  Gilbert Hay of Heidelberg, who murdered his  mother with a hammer for some drinking money, met the end of his life here.  Today the gallows are displayed at one of the backrooms.  Go and have a look and do not just pass by, you might be surprised at what you discover.

We would love to hear from you if there are some other interesting places to explore in Riversdale. 

oOo

Make this year a year of discovery

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We were wondering what was happening in the Moordenaarskaroo to be blessed with such a name … so we went to explore.  As the road snakes through the harsh and washed-out landscape there is not much to see – no animals, no man, no murderer – yet, there is a certain beauty to the stark scenery.  There are a few theories about the name Moordenaarskaroo.  Firstly, that  it is named so due to the extreme heat and cold, because both can kill you.  The second theory is that a couple of bandits broke out of jail in Worcester and came to hide here undiscovered for many years.   And then there was a policeman, named Van der Colf, who patrolled the area, looking for thieves.  When he caught the thieves, he tied them to his horse, and they had to walk all the way back to jail.  In the book Timeless Karoo, Jonathan Deal writes: “When Van der Colf became bored, and perhaps a little drunk, he would release the prisoners to run away up a hill — and take potshots at them with his rifle, sometimes with deadly consequences.”  I do not know which one is right, but all of them makes an interesting story to tell. 

Then you arrive on the plateau at the small town of Sutherland located at 30°40 E and 32°24 S as the Welcome in Sutherland board says. At the centre of the town stands the Dutch Reformed Church (S32.39439 E20.066073) also with an interesting story.  During the Anglo Boer war, the church was occupied by British soldiers and used for eight months as a fort and barracks.  Inside the church there is still a wooden door where the soldiers carved their names to keep them occupied.  The organ, originating from Germany, is also one of a kind and is still in perfect working conditions.   Like the Karoo, Sutherland is full of gems if you are willing to look closer and spend some time.

The “star show” of Sutherland is obviously the milky way, the stars and in deep winter the snow wonderland.  There are a couple of options from where you can observe the stars – Blesfontein, Sterland or the planetarium in the middle of town.  As we stayed on Blesfontein farm we used the opportunity offered by Nicol van der Merwe to show us the stars and evening treasures through his telescope.  I was really wowed out of my socks by the knowledge of Nicol and the easy manner in which he presents his talk so that even I can understand it. 

Special note:  the road to Blesfontein is a bit rough and corrugated so take it slow and you will make it there.

oOo

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And still Logan pressed forward.  He discovered some big subterranean water reservoirs in the vicinity of the village and with a water pipe system fed the village and the railway station with water – steam trains need a lot of water to operate and Logan saw the need and the gap.  If you take a walk in the village and cross the mostly dry creek you will stumble upon the first reservoir near the sparkling blue swimming pool. 

On the cards for Matjiesfontein was a tennis court, a golf course and a cricket pitch as cricket was the main sport at the time in England.  In 1901 Matjiesfontein hosted a cricket match between South Africa and England.  Logan also toured England with is very own cricket team with its very own interesting story!

Still Logan pressed forward to put Matjiesfontein on the map.  Thanks to him it was the first village in South African that had electric lights and a waterborne sewerage system.  As an excellent destination marketer interesting names that visited Matjiesfontein, after arriving by mail boat, was Lord Randolph Churchill, the father of Winston Churchill and the sultan of Zanzibar.  Local names of the time that you will recognize is Olive Schreiner, who rented a house next to the hotel, Cecil John Rhodes and Lord Roberts during the Anlgo Boer War. 

The present-day hotel was erected by Logan as a hospital and the turrets were used as lookout posts during the Anglo Boer War.  He also raised his own mounted corps, at his own expense, and was wounded twice in the war.  James Logan must have been a wealthy man as all these projects required, apart from vision, lots of money.

In 1968 Dawid Rawdon bought the property and put in a huge effort to renovate the hotel to its former glory and opened it in 1970.  He was also the brain behind The Drostdy Hotel in Graaff Reinet and the Lanzerac in Stellenbosch.  This will also then explain the car in the museum branded with the word Lanzerac – I was wondering about this.   In the plus/minus 130 years of existence the town was owned by only two families!

Matjiesfontein is an unexpected step back into time in the middle of the Karoo and a welcome relieve to break the monotony of your trip and worth to explore. 

Feel free to listen to Dr Dean Allen on VoiceMap as he takes you on a walking tour through the village and share some interesting titbits. 

https://voicemap.me/tour/karoo/historic-tour-of-matjiesfontein/sites

ooOOoo

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We were up early as to be ready to hit the road at 06:00 when the curfew lifts and before the Karoo heat creeps into the day.  Our first planned stop was to have a champagne breakfast in Seweweekspoort to welcome some new things that we had worked hard on to get into place.  A first stop of many during the day to to capture some moments and moods.

The pass is approximately 17 km long and and crosses the river no fewer than 23 times. Almost all the bridges over the river have been upgraded and completed.  Do take care still, because you might encounter the odd roadworks in progress. 

First back to a bit of history.  The pass was completed in 1862 by Adam de Schmidt, brother-in-law of the renowned pass-builder Thomas Bain. The initial work was done by a team of Italian prisoners. Look out for the ruins of the original toll house on the northern entrance of the poort – that is the Laingsburg side!

From here on the scenery changes around every bend to reveal the vast expanses of the Great Karoo – impressive stone ridges, wide open roads and some dust devils on the horizon.  We even spotted a farmer’s creative artwork to mark his farm entrance. 

Arriving in Laingsburg the first thing you will notice is the rainbow bridge which was one of the causes of the Laingsburg flood disaster of 25 January 1981.  Trees and all sorts of debris brought down by the river got caught on the bridge causing a blockage and a dam wall effect. The water from the three rivers could not pass underneath the bridge fast enough and quickly raised filling the town with water and turning it into a dam.  Albeit a sad spot it creates beautiful photo opportunities.  The loss of life in Laingsburg was a hundred and four men, women and children.  A hundred and eighty five houses, a home for the aged, school hostels, four rondavels and twenty-three business premises were destroyed.

The most important thing for us is to make every road trip memorable, no matter how far or where you are going.   

How do we do it? Pack some interesting road food and stop at an unusual spot to enjoy our breakfast or lunch.  You may have been to the same spot before, but change something in your routine to get a different experience.  Put an effort in to make every road trip different to create a new memory.

What 2020 with all its difficulties taught us , is that life can be unexpected and short.  Live your life to the best of your abilities!

oOo

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If you ever find yourself daydreaming about the beautiful Karoo Landscapes, the bare mountain ridges (sometimes capped with snow), the warmth of a fire in the winter or the cool shade of the big ‘stoep’ around a homely Karoo cottage, dream no further. Snap out of it, NOW!!

Pack your bags and hit the road, we will meet you at our favourite Karoo Farmhouse. It is situated at the foot of the majestic Towerkop Mountains a mere 15km from Ladismith on the famous Route 62 that dissect the Klein Karoo.

In the fertile Dwarsriver Valley where the most sophisticated wines are being developed from lush green vineyards, Arusio Farmhouse @ Towerkop awaits you. Driving on a well maintained gravel road, admiring the beautiful views, you might think that you have left the Karoo landscape behind when you turned off the R62. Here you will soon switch your cellphone off and get rid of your watch. Time needs to stand still for you to admire the awe-inspiring mountain range that is making it’s appearance right in front of you.

Tucked away behind a vineyard and across a little stream, is a stylish Karoo off-the-grid farmhouse with a characteristic veranda surrounding the house. It shelters you from the African sun and the windy weather at the foot of the well-known Towerkop Mountains, a hiker’s paradise.

Arusio Farmhouse @ Towerkop is so much more than one expects. It is decorated in a stylish fashion that is extremely comfortable and makes you feel at home instantly. The house, together with the cottage sleeps 7 people. Firewood for endless hours of socializing is provided as well as every other amenity and item you would possibly need to make your stay a pleasant one. This is definitely not your typical off-the-grid stay. Excellent lighting throughout the house and outside, comfortable good quality bedding, hot water, electrical plugs and fridges are available. Anything and everything you would use back home is at the tip of your fingers.

Waking up every morning with views of the mountain through every window. Having a cup of coffee and homemade rusks while watching the birds go about their harvesting of nectar in the early morning. Taking a stroll down to the little river that runs through the property, all priceless moments that will forever be etched in your memory.

In no time the sun will set on another day and you will soon have to bid the immaculate little farmhouse goodbye. Fear not, for it is only a click or two away and your next dates will be booked. You will not be able to explore what the area has to offer in only one weekend. When you arrive at Arusio Farmhouse @ Towerkop, you would want to shove your shoes and grab a book to just relax, forgetting that there are more to explore and a different world in the rest of the Dwarsriver Valley.

We have already booked our next stay and cannot wait to recharge our batteries with the cleanest air that you will find around the country. Some peace and quiet can do magic for your soul!

oOo

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You can start the trip at any point and travel in any direction.  It all depends on how you feel and where you are staying. 

Our starting point will be in George at the St Marks Cathedral at the top end of York Street.  Travelling towards the mountain you will find this little Anglican church on your right-hand side.   Some of the interesting facts is that the stained-glass windows came all the way from Germany.   It was recovered from a church in Germany during the French Revolution, brought to England and then found its way to South Africa.  The church dates back to the period of 1850 and is the oldest of the three churches that you will visit today.

In 1948 Queen Elizabeth also paid a visit to the cathedral on her Royal visit to the Union of South Africa.

Heading east towards Knysna you will make a stop in the charming village of Belvidere to visit the Holy Trinity church which originates from 1855. 

In early 1848, soon after Bishop Gray arrived in Cape Town, two affluent English-speaking Settlers from Knysna – Thomas Duthie and William Newdigate – road to Cape Town to impress on the Bishop the need of a clergyman in the region. The Bishop’s stone masons (Alexander Bern, Alexander Lawrence and his brother James) set out on 27 May 1851 and for the next six months stone was blasted from a nearby quarry and brought to the site. By the middle of 1852 all the stonework was completed and they could begin with the roof, In 1853 the church opened for its first service. The consecration however had to be delayed until 1855 when Bishop Gray visited Knysna again.

After this turn right onto the N2 and head into Knynsa.  Here you will visit the St George’s Church in the main road. 

John Rex laid the foundation stone of this church in 1849 built on land donated by his father, George Rex, the founder of Knysna.   Construction of the church commenced in 1850 based on a plan adapted by Sophy Gray.  Two Scottish stonemasons, Lawrence and Bern, were commissioned to build the church.    

The church is open for private prayer on weekdays 08:00 – 15:00.

GPS coordinates:  S 34° 02.090 E 023° 03.021

Carry on with the N2 towards Plettenberg Bay. The Sophy Gray church with the loveliest setting is arguably St Peter’s in Plettenberg Bay. The church is situated close to a grove of trees and overlooks the ocean and the distant Tsitsikamma Mountains and is within easy walking distance from the town centre. You may also note that Saint Peter’s is built of a random selection of stones. Noteworthy features are the buttresses set at right angles to each corner of the west wall and the scissors truss roof.

GPS coordinates:  S 34° 03.249′ E 023° 22.463′

Sophy was a busy woman and designed about 53 churches scattered all over South Africa.    She was the first woman to practice architecture in South Africa, and one of the earliest to do so in the world. No mean feat for a woman who was a wife during the Victorian era, and a mother to five children.

There are also some other interesting churches to visit in the Garden Route. Have a look at San Ambrosio church in the forests of Knysna.

—oOo—

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So, what is a turn table all about?

Or before we go there, why am I writing about a turn table of all things under the sun?  Because I think it is worthwhile to write about it as it is not something often seen in South Africa.  I discovered this one by accident in the beautiful town of Knysna, next to the waterfront at an almost forgotten spot next to a parking lot.    On your next visit in Knysna head over to this GPS location to see it:  S 34° 02.393 E 023° 02.654 .

According to Wikipedia a railway turntable is a device for turning railway rolling stock, usually locomotives, so that they can be moved back in the direction from which they came. This is especially true in areas with economic considerations or with a lack of sufficient space.

Sadly, this is one of the features that became defunct when the Outeniqua Choo Choo stopped to operate between George and Knysna due to flood damages to the railroad. 

I also think there are not many countries in the world where you still find a train turn table.  Do you know of one?  It will be nice to see where in the world you can still find these structure so leave a location in the comments section and let’s see if we can build a trial of turn tables around the world. 

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This is South Africa’s own lakes district.  There are various bird hides along the lakes system that you can, well, hide in, to watch some bird life along the lakes.  Find Gullilule and Malachite Bird hides for some splendid bird activity along the lakes. The chances are good that you will be the only person in the hide.  By far one of the best kept secrets still in the Garden Route!

Stop at Dolphin’s Point and enjoy the view both ways.  First look to the East and enjoy the unspoiled beaches of, well Wilderness, and then look to the West and you will notice the icon bridge over the Kaaimans river mouth.  I wonder how many pictures were taken at this spot in the past and how many more will be taken in the future.

While at Dolphin’s Point remember to look out for migrating whales between June and November.  Although you might have seen them before it is always a special sight for me.

If you are in love with forests, then you need to take the route along the famous Seven Passes roads. And while you are on the Seven Passes road stop more or less halfway at a quant little eatery with the name of Totties near Rheenendal.  They serve generous helpings, but do not be in a hurry as good food requires time to prepare.  This is a bit further afield than Wilderness, but worth a visit.

The gravel roads around the lakes and even the Seven Passes road is excellent for some mountain biking.  Take note that there are some steep climbs on some section, but there need to be some challenges for the trained riders as well.    This is also a tick box route for many motor cyclists so keep an eye open for them as there are many blind curves and rises. The clip inserted below gives a sneak preview on the Seven Passes. 

Ride the Seven Passes

There are several big trees in the vicinity.  The Woodville Big Tree is worth a visit and a nice place to have a leisurely picnic.

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This is a following up on a previous post about travelling South Africa and some basic tips on what to do and expect.

Money and the ATM  

• Plastic money (ie credit and debit cards) is widely accepted.  However, make sure you have some cash on you for tipping parking attendants, etc. 
• Do not you stuff your wallet with a wad of notes where everyone can see it.  Just keep a small amount in your wallet where it is visible to the public.  Keep the wad stashed at another secret place.  This also ensure that you have money left if things turn out for the worst!
• Take care when drawing money at ATMs.  In busy areas, there will be a security guard on duty.  Of course, Avoid ATMS that are in dark corners.  Be aware of accepting help from persons at the ATM as a lot of scams happen in this way.
• It is safer to draw money at the ATM at the bank.  If your card gets stuck, go inside immediately and ask for assistance from a bank official. 
• It is a good idea to keep some small change in your pocket in the event that you get mugged.  If you just hand over the small change they will probably take it and leave.  Do not resist and fight!  Things could turn out ugly.  Report the incident to the nearest police station, because this is not acceptable behaviour in South Africa.  Here we respect each other.

Valuables

• When on the beach, and enjoying the African sunshine, make sure that at least one person stays behind at your belongings otherwise you might go back to your hotel in your swimming suit.  It is a really an easy target for pick-pocketing.  Nowadays there are lockable storage containers available at some beaches.  Try them out!
• Do not walk around and advertise your expensive jewellery and valuables exposed.  Be discreet with valuables when wandering the streets.  This means dress accordingly to where you are and be streetwise. 
• Ask the staff at your accommodation regarding safe areas to walk if you are in doubt – they will know the how, what and where of the city or town.
• Rather leave your valuables in the safe at your accommodation and just take what is necessary and needed. 

General

• If you wander in dark alley ways after a night out that will be an open invitation to get robbed.  It is not worth the risk.
• At night rather spend the money and make use of Uber, Bolt or Taxify.

Do not be put off to travel South Africa – keep it on your bucket list.  Bad things do not happen as a rule if you are vigilant and streetwise.

I invite you to come and experience the warm hearts of the complex Rainbow Nation!

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