The Gamtoos Valley is quickly becoming one of our favourite places to explore. It was thus a no-brainer to spend Felicity’s birthday in the citrus capital of the Eastern Cape. Except, this time around there were no citrus involved, but instead we discovered another secluded campsite not to far off the main road.

After spending a night in Baviaanskloof, it was time to meet the parents for a weekend camping and spoils for mom on her birthday. So after stopping of at Tolbos (more about this quaint little “padstal” later) to pick-up the keys, I was on my merry way to meet them for a quick light lunch and catch-up before heading into the “no signal” zone.

Gonjah (the indigenous word for grasshopper) is a secluded bush camp, 9km from Patensie, situated on the banks of a small little creek running right through the middle of the camp. The campsite has 4 ablution blocks, each with a hot shower (gas geyser) and a flush toilet. Situated under the big old yellowwood trees, Gonjah is covered in shade almost all day as the sun only reaches the bottom of the valley after midday. Here you find peace and quiet for your soul. With no cellphone reception, you will have plenty of time to appreciate the Knysna Loeries and other bird life that is in abundance in this few square meters of paradise.

As a family we always look for some activities to do together and Gonjah 4×4 is just the thing for that. On Sunday morning we headed out to enjoy a morning exploring a bit further. The turning around point would be the lookout over the Grootrivier River and the rest of the Cockscomb Mountains. It is also at this point that you will find a Geocache, which was a bonus for us, as we love looking for little treasures. The route is an easy, but rocky one. You traverse farmland and fynbos and with the fires that burnt in the area some time ago, the hard, black Protea bushes might be an unwelcoming surprise to a neatly cleaned new SUV. However, if you can bear with the bumpy ride and not get lost along the way (the markers for the 4×4 route is not at all clear), you will be rewarded with breathtaking views. We suggest that you follow our example and pack a picnic basket and coffee to spend some time at the top of the valley. The route up to the valley took us 2 hours at a leisurely pace without getting lost or diverting off the path. No real off-road skills needed. With two or three inclines on route, you simply will have to stick to what you know about your vehicle to succeed.

We only had one night’s stay here and could have easily stayed over a second night, especially given the competitive pricing. It was unfortunately time to pack up camp and head over to Tolbos for our last and final lunch of the weekend. A true birthday celebration, just the way we like it in the peace and quiet of nature. At Tolbos we met the owner of Gonjah and Tolbos Restaurant (Hetsie Scheepers) and spend quality time chatting and reminiscing about Africa and our journeys we undertook over the years. Hetsie is a seasoned traveler and it is clear that she has a passion for the outdoors and for people. It is thus no surprise that Tolbos Restaurant situated in Patensie is a popular stop-over for motorbikers and adventurers alike exploring the Baviaanskloof and passing through the Gamtoos Valley. The shop at Tolbos stocks a large variety of hand-crafted products. Here you will find anything from preserves to homemade pies. Hetsie and her friendly staff also serves the most delicious meals for the ravenous bikers to the light eater who only wants a snack. Hearty meals plated in a high-quality restaurant manner will surprise you and you will leave here on a full tummy, licking your fingers and wanting more.

Another two establishments in the Gamtoos Valley which you can add to your travel list. A friendly warning: you might want to add another hour or two, or even an extra day, to your itinerary. These places are bound to take your heart.

Just a little bit extra:
• Gonjah also has a fully equipped chalet
• There is a petrol station in Patensie
• Only high clearance vehicles will make it to the campsite (my VW Polo did not)
• Make sure you have a bite to eat at Tolbos – their food is fantastic and the hospitality is really something
• If you are planning to do the 4×4 route, we will happily provide you with some waypoints to easily find your way to the top

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On 15 March 2019 the catchment area of the Baviaanskloof had a down pour of about 75 mm in a time span of 40 minutes which caused huge damage to roads and alike.  Once through Raaskrans and crossing the first “drif” we noticed that big amounts of water rushed through the kloof.  Debris was hanging from trees to indicate the water’s reach.  This was the trend for the next two days – short and easy water crossing, longer water crossings, washed away water crossings and then there is the (in)famous water crossing at Smitskraal.  This is where we also encountered two bikers that was soaking wet, but with big smiles on their faces.  They just enjoyed the ride!

The 197 km long kloof is adorned with interesting names such as Vensterklip, where a skirmish between English and Boer took place, Doodsklip, Queen Victoria’s bust, Studtis and Babes se winkel.  If you get to know the history of the kloof you will also learn that JG Strijdom was born in the kloof and a book by PH Nortjè is based on the kloof.  Other points of interest are the Campbell monument which was erected to commemorate the floods of 1916 where several people succumbed to flood water rushing through the area.  The little DR Church with its red roof was also relocated to Zaaimansvlakte after it has been washed away in the 1916 floods.  So, there are a lot of sadness and interesting stories in the kloof if you look closer.  Take your time when you pass through the kloof. You will encounter different types of traffic from bicycles to donkey carts and beyond.  

If you are not comfortable with no cell phone reception and be disconnected from the outside world, this is not the place for you.   In the kloof people are friendly and always have time for a bit of chatter.  Be courteous and enquire about their wellbeing as well.  Sometimes you, as the visitor, is the only contact they might have with the outside world for some weeks.  Life is slow here.  Enjoy the ride.  At the moment you will definitely need a 4×4 to traverse the kloof as no road repairs were done to date.  It might also be a good idea to make sure your spare tyre is in good condition.  Despite driving careful we got a cut on the outside wall of one of our tyres, luckily no big damage, but come prepared. 

Lastly, remember this is also a popular ride for motorbike enthusiasts.  Be aware of them and especially around corners stick to your side and on steep inclines give them right of way – they will appreciate it!  If an accident happen here it takes hours to get help to this remote part of the world. 

A good place to stop and stock up while you enjoy a coffee moment is at Tolbos Deli and Bistro (http://www.tolbos.co.za)  where you can buy anything from wine, jams and rusk that will make your trip more enjoyable.  Also chat with the friendly owner, Hetsie, who is always on the ready the help with some advice.

Some need to knows:

Driving conditions are slow

Watch out for wildlife – kudu and baboon are abundant

This is a water scarce area – keep water sources pristine

Watch out for motorcycles

There are camping (our favourite is Doringkloof) and various guesthouse options available in the kloof

There is no cell phone reception

Nights can get chilly, pack something warm even though it is summer

The post ….. AND WE ARE OFF TO THE BAVIAANSKLOOF MEGA RESERVE appeared first on TRAVELBUCKET.

Nestled in the heart of the Gamtoos Valley, 12km outside the town of Hankey in South Africa, lies the perfect spot to spend the weekend. John and Catherina Wait have outdone their selves with providing an enjoyable camping spot for the whole family at inniKloof. Whether you are looking for a place before you enter Baviaanskloof or have just exited Baviaanskloof or even just a nice breakaway weekend, this is the place to be.

inniKloof offers a main campsite with grass and multiple electricity points. The ablution facilities are neat and clean with an attached scullery. A big undercover platform is available with a built-in braai for those who do not wish to make use of the big round braais in the middle of the campsite. Might I add that these big braai pits becomes the centre of attention when a big group descends on inniKloof.

A new addition to the campsite is “Boskrapper” which offers two stands in “Bosloerie” and “Bosmusikant”.  These stands are under big yellowwood trees and are a bit more private.  These stands can only take tents and no electricity is available.  Each site has it’s own pool and the ablutions has a gas geyser and solar lighting.

With awards such as “Best Value for Money” and “Best Establishment in the Gamtoos Valley” it isn’t difficult to see why inniKloof became so popular under bigger groups as well as the small family.

Not only do they offer a big open area with shaded camping spots and ample space for kids to ride their bicycles and enjoy a game of cricket. inniKloof also now has three bush camping spots along the river. These camping spots share an ablutions. Two of the three camping spots have their own swimming rock pool and none of them has electricity. You will be away from the hustle and bustle of the big campsite, but you will have to follow a path of about 30m from your car to your camp.

Apart from the big rock swimming pool at the main camp, filled with canoes and tubes, inniKloof also offers 2 short hikes. Draaikloof is about 2.2km and Die Nek is about 2.5km. These hikes are available for overnight visitors. Day visitors can make a reservation and pay a day visitors fee to do the hikes.

Not only does inniKloof offer camping opportunities, but four pristine cottages awaits those that would rather opt for the self-catering option. Bedding is supplied and each cottage sleeps either 6 or 8 people. The cottages provides you with a kitchen, multiple rooms and a lounge as well as a bathroom with a shower and hot water.

The venue can be reached by a normal sedan car. Driving along the entrance path lined with Yellowwoods alongside the river, you immediately feel that this is a special place. A place that will steal your heart in a second. As you lose cellphone reception, you realize that this is the perfect place to get away from the city.

For bird watchers this is truly paradise, rare species such as the African Finfoot often makes it’s appearance at the waterhole. Knysna Loeries dance in the trees around the campsite and birdsong wakes you in the morning. For those who would like to relax in a different way, there is a golf course just outside of Hankey. For the food lovers, there are farmstalls all around the area in the likes of Padlangs and Tolbos close to Patensie. A visit to the Mooihoek strawberry farm to buy some good quality frozen berries is a must!

For the more adventurous, why not hike up to Bergvenster to appreciate the views over this beautiful valley. Then visit some historical sites like the Old Mill Ruins, The Miller’s Grave, Phillips’ Tunnel, Phillips’ Grave and the slave tree.

The Gamtoos Valley truly offers something for everyone. So why not make inniKloof your basecamp and explore the area.

Contact John or Catherina at 042 284 0940 or 042 284 0697 to make your booking.

oOo

*This post was reviewed on 15/12/2020

A few notes:

• Hankey has a Spar for refreshments
• inniKloof has no cellphone reception
• You need to check-in at the Reception past the campsite upon arrival
• Bring your camera with, there are plenty of birds and photo opportunities
• It is only about 2.5km gravel road

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Some of you will know the dam by its former name of Paul Sauer who was a prominent politician on the South African scene. However, after 1995 the name of the dam was changed to the Kouga Dam. The dam was built in 1957 for irrigation purposes in the valley and to supply drinking water to the greater Port Elizabeth area. Something that I did not know was that the Kouga Dam also serves as a flood-control dam (or as we say in Afrikaans a koffer dam) for floods originating from the catchment area of the Kouga river and to decrease the effects of these floods in the lower Gamtoos area.

Below the dam wall, albeit the present drought, there was a lush green picnic site. Being a Sunday and over a long weekend I sort of expected that it will be packed with visitors. It was empty. As we were departing a family with small kids arrived and unpacked the car to spend the day kicking ball and playing with the kids in the shade of the trees. It was apparent that they know this hidden spot very well.

We took the short steep drive to the top of the dam wall. Standing on the double curvature wall of 82 meters in height we had a view over the rest of the dam. The dam was only about 49 percent full and littered with branches of dead trees. It was disheartening to see how low the water levels of the dam was at the moment. On the other hand it must be an impressive sight when it is full and the dam basin stretches back 34 kilometres storing 128 million cubic meters – my brain cannot even calculate what so much water must look like!

The little tunnel next to the dam wall created some good photo opportunities and like everyone else we stopped to snap some pictures.
Standing on the dam wall you realise the impact of the drought in the catchment areas of the dam and the enormous part water plays in our daily lives. Without water there is no life – I pray that rain will fall soon in the Baviaanskloof.

—oOo—

Need to know:
Money matters: No entrance fee payable
Where : GPS coordinate 33.7406°S 24.5877°E
Why: It is a good place to teach the young one about caring for our water resources
Facilities: Braai area under shade and ablution facilities

—oOo—

I have an interest in dams and water levels in general and it will be interesting to monitor the level of the dam. When you have visited the dam please drop the percentage displayed on the board near the causeway in the comments section below the post.

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