Starting from George take the N12 towards Oudtshoorn.  As you drive up the Outeniqua Pass enjoy the soft green folds of the mountains, because soon you will leave it behind  you.  Once you have reached the top of the pass and descend on the other side into the Waboomskraal valley the Klein Karoo slowly unfolds all its secrets.  Take the Oudtshoorn turn-off as soon as you exit the Waboomskraal valley.

As you approach Oudtshoorn you will notice the blue haze of the Swartberg mountains on the horizon.  In winter it will be dusted with some snow and in summer the fynbos will be in full bloom.  There are several things to do in and around the town of Oudtshoorn, but we will be heading to Prince Albert via the Swartberg mountains.  Take the R328 out of town and follow the road through Schoemanshoek to the Cango Caves and the mountains. The route via the Swartberg mountains is a gravel road, which can sometimes be very rough, but is always very spectacular.  

We recommend that you plan your day to have lunch in Prince Albert and allow some time to visit some of the finest olive and fig farms, wineries and art galleries in the region.  Remember that this is a small town and some of the establishments might not be open on a Sunday so plan accordingly but what we can vouch for is that African Relish surely serves the best pizza in Prince Albert!

A Saturday morning is a good time to visit as you will catch the local market and the Fransie Pienaar museum open where you will find an interesting pamphlet about all the different gable styles of Prince Albert. Take a walk or drive through town and identify them all.

To complete your circle route return via the tarred road (R407), passing Klaarstroom, back to George. Stop at the Klaarstroom Hotel to get something cold (or hot if you travel in winter) and most of the time you will meet some interesting people at the hotel.

This tar route is (R407) a bit longer than the Swartberg route, but it takes you through the impressive Meiringspoort which changes it face many times a day depending where the shadows fall.  Allow some time to stop in the poort to admire the rock formations or take a walk to the waterfall and discover Herrie se klip. 

Continue with the  N12 past ostrich farms and feather palaces to Oudtshoorn and head back via the Outeniqua pass to George.  It is worthwhile to travel the N12 between George and Oudtshoorn in both directions as you will notice some different scenery going each way. 

oOo

Distance from George via Swartberg pass: 135 km (R328 – gravel)

Distance from George via Klaarstroom: 172 km (R407 – tar)

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If you ever find yourself daydreaming about the beautiful Karoo Landscapes, the bare mountain ridges (sometimes capped with snow), the warmth of a fire in the winter or the cool shade of the big ‘stoep’ around a homely Karoo cottage, dream no further. Snap out of it, NOW!!

Pack your bags and hit the road, we will meet you at our favourite Karoo Farmhouse. It is situated at the foot of the majestic Towerkop Mountains a mere 15km from Ladismith on the famous Route 62 that dissect the Klein Karoo.

In the fertile Dwarsriver Valley where the most sophisticated wines are being developed from lush green vineyards, Arusio Farmhouse @ Towerkop awaits you. Driving on a well maintained gravel road, admiring the beautiful views, you might think that you have left the Karoo landscape behind when you turned off the R62. Here you will soon switch your cellphone off and get rid of your watch. Time needs to stand still for you to admire the awe-inspiring mountain range that is making it’s appearance right in front of you.

Tucked away behind a vineyard and across a little stream, is a stylish Karoo off-the-grid farmhouse with a characteristic veranda surrounding the house. It shelters you from the African sun and the windy weather at the foot of the well-known Towerkop Mountains, a hiker’s paradise.

Arusio Farmhouse @ Towerkop is so much more than one expects. It is decorated in a stylish fashion that is extremely comfortable and makes you feel at home instantly. The house, together with the cottage sleeps 7 people. Firewood for endless hours of socializing is provided as well as every other amenity and item you would possibly need to make your stay a pleasant one. This is definitely not your typical off-the-grid stay. Excellent lighting throughout the house and outside, comfortable good quality bedding, hot water, electrical plugs and fridges are available. Anything and everything you would use back home is at the tip of your fingers.

Waking up every morning with views of the mountain through every window. Having a cup of coffee and homemade rusks while watching the birds go about their harvesting of nectar in the early morning. Taking a stroll down to the little river that runs through the property, all priceless moments that will forever be etched in your memory.

In no time the sun will set on another day and you will soon have to bid the immaculate little farmhouse goodbye. Fear not, for it is only a click or two away and your next dates will be booked. You will not be able to explore what the area has to offer in only one weekend. When you arrive at Arusio Farmhouse @ Towerkop, you would want to shove your shoes and grab a book to just relax, forgetting that there are more to explore and a different world in the rest of the Dwarsriver Valley.

We have already booked our next stay and cannot wait to recharge our batteries with the cleanest air that you will find around the country. Some peace and quiet can do magic for your soul!

oOo

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This is also an area rich in flora. Not only aloes are noticeable on the slopes and along the road, but you will also find some rare indigenous plant species like the Aristata protea.  Go prepared with binocular and camera and something warm in winter as you might encounter snow covered mountain tops which creates a bit of a chill factor.

The original construction of the road started in 1859 with convict labour and lasted for three years. On final completion in 1862 it was also accessible for wagon traffic with a toll house strategically placed enroute. (Yes, a toll road). Construction on this road only started after Meiringspoort, cutting through the Swartberg Mountains near De Rust, was completed in 1858.  Today the Seweweekspoort road still more or less still follows the same route as it was originally constructed more than 150 years ago. This is quite a remarkable accomplishment in today’s times where everything is a quick fix and do not last. I hope that it will never change significantly as it will then lose some of its charm.

From my point of view this 18 km stretch of gravel road that links Zoar with Laingsburg rates as one of the most spectacular gravel roads in South Africa.  It is an easy drive with no steep gradients and mind-blowing rock formations around every corner and numerous low water bridges.  Do not be in a hurry when you are here.  Stop and take a lot of pictures.  There are lots and lots and lots of opportunities and the other road users that you encounter are patient with you on the road as they are mostly there for the same reason – to admire the beauty around every bend.  You surely will not regret all the pictures when you get home.

Where did the name originate?

There is many tales about on its name originated, but on Mountain Passes South Africa’s webpage https://www.mountainpassessouthafrica.co.za/ one of the explanation is:

“There is an array of stories as to where the poort got it’s name from, most of which are folklore. The most likely version is that it is named after the Seven Weeks Fern (Polystichum Andiantiforum), which in Afrikaans is called the Seweweeksvaring, which grows all over the poort in moist places and crevices. This is the officially accepted version.”

How do you find Seweweekspoort?

Approaching from the south you will be travelling on the famous R62 between Calitzdorp and Ladismith.  At more or less S33.28.50 E21.27.34 you will find a gravel road, the R323, that is heading in a Northerly direction and will link up with the N1 eventually.

Apart from being a World Heritage the area also falls under Cape Nature thus adhere to their rules and regulations – no flower picking, etc, etc.  Enjoy the silence and the beauty of the Klein-Karoo.  

—-000—-

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Coordinates:                33°33’24.8″S      21°53’07.2″E

It was a nice and interesting Sunday morning breakfast run with the Garden Route BMW Motorcycle Club which ended at the Karooboom.  The wind was really huffing and puffing when we left George  along the Outeniqua pass where we had to hold on to the bikes.  As soon as we reached the Waboomskraal valley the wind subsided and it was just a beautiful Karoo day.

Today we followed the back roads via Kandelaarsrivier and De Hoop and so did the rain clouds.  As we pulled in at Karooboom the heavens opened on us – time to relax with a mug of  lekker boeretroos.  But soon after the downpour blue skies greeted us again = love the Klein Karoo!!

This is a no frills and fuss place with down to earth décor.  No fancy food on the menu.  The speciality at  Karooboom is pap en lap.  As no one in the group could vouch for it,  it was sort of  an  unanimous decision that all of us will give it a try.   What do you get when eating pap en lap?  Maize porridge served with tomato and onion relish, finely carved lieslap , a fried egg and home  baked bread and jam.  They also serve Sunday lunch and hosts a tripe evening  once a month.

Support Irene and Neil and find them on Facebook or visit their website at www.karooboom.co.za

Make your reservations for Sunday lunch at 044-0070034 or WhatsApp 079 620 1441

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The Karoo landscape comprises of big blue skies, typical Karoo koppies, windpumps of all shapes and sizes, sheep, the smell of Karoo vegetation, long and dusty gravel roads, beautiful churches and some interesting people in the countryside.  Priceless!

Once you spent some time in the Karoo  you will fall in love with the little creatures, the spring flowers in bloom, the total quietness and  sultry evenings on offer.

And last but not least if you get your timing right you may get rewarded with the most amazing sunsets you can imagine.  These are things that money cannot buy!

After experiencing all of this you will want to come back again and again and again, my friend.  Come and see it with your own eyes …….

 — Money fills your pocket, but travels fill your soul! —

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What do you do for a summer holiday break?

Well we planned a camping trip to Gamkaberg Nature Reserve, tucked away in the mountains between Oudtshoorn and Calitzdorp, where the summer temperature easily soars to 40˚ C during summer.  Arriving at reception and while checking in with the helpful staff I glanced at the visitors book and noticed that we were the first campers in over a week.  Really not a favoured destination for the summer holidays!

After buying wood from Willem at reception we set off via the 4×4 trail climbing up Lawsons Pass to Bakenskop at 1105 meter (which were our highest elevation) to enjoy lunch in the cool breeze and enjoy the views from the top.

Arriving at Oukraal we found that the facilities really exceeded all our expectations.  The camping huts and stone shelter, providing cover against the relentless sun, were spotlessly clean.  No wonder I noticed an award in reception which proudly displayed best camp of Cape Nature.

During our stay we were rewarded with some breathtaking sunsets and one night we experienced an electrical storm that left my jaw dropping – way better than any New Year’s firework show can ever be.  Standing in the dark and watching the display I once again realized what a mighty God we serve!

We took early morning drives in search for elusive animals like eland and zebra and watched little critters coming to peep at us in curiosity during the heat of the day.  We were lucky enough to also see some really prominent cat spoor which can either be caracal or the very shy leopard.

These sit downs to photograph the small creatures first of all tests your patience and secondly your toughness in the Karoo sun.  Well, I did not last that long …  This is surely their world where I am the visitor.

We thoroughly enjoyed the peace and quiet with no cell phone reception and having the whole reserve to ourselves as we have not seen any other visitors during our stay.   The only thing to worry about is to defrost the meat that you want to braai tonight!   Just a quick reminder: you have to be self sufficient if you want to camp here.

As we were leaving the reserve I was pondering on the fact that maybe we are not the “normal” kind of family that choose to have a sea holiday, but rather come to the bush for a different experience during the heat of the summer.

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On the Outeniqua mountains

As the sun was starting to lift its head there was time for a quick early morning cup of coffee  and a rusk with Stanley providing the hot water source.   It was on the chilly side so  we did not linger long before we continued the drive.

Livingstone and Stanley

The sun was slow to rise and the shadows cold and deep.  We had breakfast while the fog was still hanging low over Oudtshoorn and the valley down below.  What a privilege to live in Africa and enjoy life from the window of your old Land Rover.

Early morning misty views

We all enjoyed a nice day out in nature and returned safely home  – well done Livingstone, the Landy!

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 We set off in George at a leisurely pace with clear blue skies, travel over the Outeniqua Pass via Oudtshoorn and aim for Prince Albert on the other side of the Swartberg Mountains.   The road is quiet.  I think the people are recovering from the New Year’s parties …

Once over the Outeniqua Pass the temperature rises to 31 degrees Celsius in the Klein Karoo.  It has been quite a while since I last traveled the iconic Swartberg pass, a gravel road, on the R328 but as all the previous times we were rewarded with stunning views of the mountains and yet again I am in awe of the skills of Thomas Baines – son of the famous Andrew Geddes Baines who built Bain’s Kloof Pass and many more – who constructed the road from 1881 until 1888 through the Cape fold mountains.  Today the dry-stone retaining walls are still in place and almost 120 years old.

The 120 year old stone walls

Along the road we stop for a geocache or two that are still outstanding and I have time to take some pictures of the veld flowers that are in bloom at this time of the year.   Just a reminder – keep your eyes open for snakes and scorpions when you are walking in the veld.

Before we reach The Top we see a brandwag (usually a big male baboon) keeping watch over his clan  whilst basking in the sun!  For those of you who are not familiar with baboons – close the doors and windows of your car when alighting, because they are very curious and can cause havock in your vehicle.

When we arrive at the top of the pass, which is located at  33°21′8″S 22°2′45″E , some tourists are enjoying their lunch at the viewpoint and admiring the vistas towards the Karoo.  The road is busy and you have to keep an extra special  lookout for cyclists and motor cyclists in the dusty conditions.  (This is a very popular motorbike road so please do not cut corners)!

The pass is  famous due to the spectacular geology that is exposed at its Northern end as you descend down to Prince Albert to the valley floor. The contortions in the rock display astonishing anticlines and synclines, and the vivid red coloration of the surrounding Quartzite is remarkable.  The pass was declared a national monument in 1988.  Along the way there are relics of the old  prison, toll hut and other historical sites.  This was Thomas Baines’ last engineering masterpiece.

You will also find the turn off to Die Hel or Gamkaskloof on this road.  Do not be fooled – it is a mere 37 km, but adhere to the time given on the signboard.  It WILL take you (+-) two hours of slow travel on the narrow and winding road!  Today however we will not take the turn off as we have visited Gamkaskloof before and are aiming for Prince Albert.

Prince Albert is buzzing over lunchtime and after passing the beautiful Dutch Reformed Church in the Main Street  our choice falls on a succulent burger and German bokwurst on the stoep of the famous Swartberg Hotel.

In the late 19^th century South Africa had more than 2000 mills, some of which dated back to the time of the first European settlers. Today only a few hundred of these mills survive, and of these, only a handful have been described or recorded in any detail.  On our way back we stop at the historic water mill, at the Southern edge of the town, to take some pictures. The mill was built by HJ Botes and was taken over by NAA Alberts and remained in his family for three generations. The mill was declared a national monument in 1963.

I will keep you posted on some more exciting travels in 2015, but this is my story and my smiley to start an exiting new year!

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Ek het begin oplees oor die geskiedenis van Oudtshoorn en vind toe uit dat daar  ongeveer 100 Joodse gesinne in 1877 hierheen gevlug het tydens die Russies-Turkse oorlog – meestal vanuit Lithuania wat op daardie stadium ‘n Russiese provinsie was.   Vandaar dat die sinagoge  in Baron van Reedestraat in 1881 opgerig is met die hulp van die Afrikaanssprekende gemeenskap van Oudsthoorn.  Die sinagoge is vandag nog in gebruik en lê weggesteek agter in ‘n lower groen tuin.  Soos wat ek stap hoor ek helder kinderstemme.  Vandag is daar ‘n kleuterskool in die ou Hebreeuse skool gebou agter die sinagoge.  Die kompleks het ook ‘n Joodse klub en die Rabbi se huis gehuisves.

Nog verder aan in Baron van Reedestraat (wat eers bekend was as Queenstraat) kry ek die Ou Tronk wat vroeg in die 19de eeu gebou is en ook die ontwerp van George Wallis was.  Vandag huisves dit nog steeds die Departement van Korrektiewe Dienste in Oudtshoorn.

Dan stop ek eers by Fairview te 131 Baron van Reedestraat wat dateer uit die vroeë 20ste eeu.  Die sandsteen heining met sy pilare waarop Fairview uitgekerf is, is eintlik nog in ‘n goeie toestand en is vir my mooi.

Ons draai op in ‘n nou straatjie om in Hoogstraat uit te kom en na ander juwele van die dorp te gaan kyk en loop onverwags die Methodiste Kerk, toe gerank met ‘n creeper, raak.  Die kerkie is gesluit, maar neem ek tog ‘n paar mooi foto’s hier.

 In Hoogstraat stop ek by die NG Kerk wat opgerig is vanaf 1860 tot 1879 en sy pastorie (1881) oorkant die straat.  Dit is jammer om te sien dat die kerk se sandsteen geverf is – ‘n mens wonder hoekom, want al die ander sandsteen geboue in Oudtshoorn het so mooi behoue gebly?   Ek dink ou Otto Hager, die argitek, draai in sy graf om as hy dit sien!

 Le Roux Huis reg langs die kerk is vandag oop.  Ons gaan loop ‘n draai deur die huis.   Daar kom ons te hore dat die linoleum en matte nog nooit vervang is nie en steeds oorspronklik is!  Volgens die besoekersboek loer oorsese toeriste gereeld hier in.

Dan op in Kampstraat na die Drill Saal toe.  Die gebou is aan die verwaarloosde kant en is op die oomblik in die mark.  Ek sien ook dat Cecil John Rhodes, die destydse premier van die Kaap Kolonie, die hoeksteen van die gebou gelê het in 1892.  Ek hoop iemand red gou die gebou van ondergang en bewaar die geskiedenis.

My laaste stop vir vandag gaan by die pragtige Foster’s Folly in Voortrekkerstraat wees wat vir JH Foster gebou is,  maar in 1914 bankrot verklaar is toe die volstruis verebedryf ineenstort.   Dit was ook eens as ‘n onderwysers kollege gebruik vanaf 1915 – 1924 en ook later as ‘n meisies koshuis.  In 1991 is dit as ‘n nasionale gedenkwaardigheid verklaar en vandag is dit egter ‘n gastehuis wat agter groot bome weg kruip.

 Gou was die oggend om en my verkenningstog van die verlede op ‘n einde – dit was tyd om huis toe te gaan!

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So begin ek onder in Baron van Rheedestraat en stap verby die indrukwekkende CP Nel museum wat ongeveer 122 jaar oud is.  So leer ek dat ook Cecil John Rhodes hier op Oudtshoorn ‘n draai moes gemaak het toe hy die hoeksteen in 1892 gelê het.

Net ‘n klein entjie daarvandaan geniet toeriste ‘n koppie koffie by wit gedekte tafeldoeke op die bekende Queens Hotel se stoep.  Na bewering ook die derde oudste hotel in Suid-Afrika!  Maar ek is nog nie lus vir koffie nie en stap nog verder af in Baron Van Rheedestraat.

Dan kom ek op ‘n interessante oudhede winkeltjie af met die gepaste naam van Die Neelsie – dit is mos CJ Langenhoven wêreld die – waar jy enigiets van ‘n teelepel tot ‘n kas kan koop en as al die inkopies jou dors maak kan jy hierso ‘n lekker scone en koffie vir net R20 onder die kleurvolle sambrele geniet.  O ja, het ek gesê dit is ook in ‘n pragtige sandsteen huis geleë? Dit het intussen verander na Karoo Antiques, maar dis nog steeds heerlike eetgoed op.  Wanneer ek uitkom sien ek die Prince Vincent gebou (dd 1914) oorkant die straat wat in die “high days” van die volstruisveer bedryf die grootste vars produkte mark en algemene handelaar in Suid-Afrika gehuisves het.

Na koffie gaan ek links om die hoek na die hangbrug wat in 1913 deur Rowley en Seuns van Londen opgerig is om Wesbank met die middedorp te verbind.   Soek ‘n bietjie rond en jy sal dalk ‘n geocache hier kry.

Die rooi hangbrug in Kerkstraat

Maar oppad  terug na Baron van Rheedestraat wonder ek wie die Baron van Rheede nou eintlik was (Ek kan nie onthou dat ek ooit van hom in die geskiedenis geleer het nie, maar by die huis gekom het ek getrou aan my geocache naam hom gaan Google!).  Hy was die man wat Ryk Tulbagh moes opvolg maar het toe nooit in Suid-Afrika aangekom nie omdat hy onderweg hierheen op see gesterf het.

Die sonnetjie skyn lekker wanneer ek by die pragtige sandsteen kerkie van St Jude’s aankom wat deur die argitek George Wallis opgerig is, gebaseer op planne van Sophy Gray.  Sophy was ‘n interessante Engelse dame wat verantwoordelik was vir die oprig van ongeveer 53 kerkies in Suid-Afrika vanaf Claremont in Kaapstad tot in die Oos-Kaap.

Blikke van St Judes

Skuins oorkant die straat vanaf St Jude’s is Gotland Huis wat deur Charles Bullock, die ander naam wat telkens opduik in Oudtshoorn se sandsteen geskiedenis, ontwerp en in 1902 gebou is.  Vandag verskaf dit huisvesting aan bejaardes.

Maar eers gou die dors les onder die worsbome by Nostalgie wat reg langs Gotland Huis is.

Nog steeds in Baron van Rheede kom ek by Mimosa Lodge in die Art Nouveau-styl aan en haal die volgende direk aan want die huis word so mooi in detail beskryf.

“This beautiful Art Nouveau manor house was designed in 1907 by Mr Bullock for Robert Sladowski, a Jewish merchant of Oudtshoorn. The building was built of local sandstone by a contractor, J.T. Cooper (Jnr).

The roof line is broken by an octagonal-pointed spire steeple covered with fish-scale tiles. The base of the steeple is partially surrounded by cast-iron fretwork and on the top is a decorated spike. The bargeboard of the front gable is of beautiful dragon-design carpenter’s lace. A curved verandah is supported by decorated cast-iron poles, fretwork brackets and spandrels. A false portico is above the flight of steps to the main entrance. The wooden stoep is enclosed by cast-iron fretwork railings. Below the gable is an extension of the main bedroom partly covered with fish-scale tiles and a false parapet of cast-iron fretwork.

The four fireplaces each designed in a period art style and decorated with tiles, mirrors and Art Nouveau brasswork and encatchments, give evidence of plenty of money during Oudtshoorn’s feather-boom period. The ceiling of one of the bedrooms is of paper-mache in the French Rococo style. The dwelling now owned by Mr Andrew de Jager, is in the middle of one of the original water plots. An oak tree on one side of the front garden creates an atmosphere of peacefulness near a busy road to the Cango Caves.”  

(Bron:  http://www.oudtshoorninfo.com)

Daar is nog ‘n paar interessante geboue wat ek wil gaan opsoek wanneer ek weer in Oudtshoorn kom, maar was dit eers genoeg inligting vir een dag om te absorbeer.

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