Starting from George take the N12 towards Oudtshoorn.  As you drive up the Outeniqua Pass enjoy the soft green folds of the mountains, because soon you will leave it behind  you.  Once you have reached the top of the pass and descend on the other side into the Waboomskraal valley the Klein Karoo slowly unfolds all its secrets.  Take the Oudtshoorn turn-off as soon as you exit the Waboomskraal valley.

As you approach Oudtshoorn you will notice the blue haze of the Swartberg mountains on the horizon.  In winter it will be dusted with some snow and in summer the fynbos will be in full bloom.  There are several things to do in and around the town of Oudtshoorn, but we will be heading to Prince Albert via the Swartberg mountains.  Take the R328 out of town and follow the road through Schoemanshoek to the Cango Caves and the mountains. The route via the Swartberg mountains is a gravel road, which can sometimes be very rough, but is always very spectacular.  

We recommend that you plan your day to have lunch in Prince Albert and allow some time to visit some of the finest olive and fig farms, wineries and art galleries in the region.  Remember that this is a small town and some of the establishments might not be open on a Sunday so plan accordingly but what we can vouch for is that African Relish surely serves the best pizza in Prince Albert!

A Saturday morning is a good time to visit as you will catch the local market and the Fransie Pienaar museum open where you will find an interesting pamphlet about all the different gable styles of Prince Albert. Take a walk or drive through town and identify them all.

To complete your circle route return via the tarred road (R407), passing Klaarstroom, back to George. Stop at the Klaarstroom Hotel to get something cold (or hot if you travel in winter) and most of the time you will meet some interesting people at the hotel.

This tar route is (R407) a bit longer than the Swartberg route, but it takes you through the impressive Meiringspoort which changes it face many times a day depending where the shadows fall.  Allow some time to stop in the poort to admire the rock formations or take a walk to the waterfall and discover Herrie se klip. 

Continue with the  N12 past ostrich farms and feather palaces to Oudtshoorn and head back via the Outeniqua pass to George.  It is worthwhile to travel the N12 between George and Oudtshoorn in both directions as you will notice some different scenery going each way. 

oOo

Distance from George via Swartberg pass: 135 km (R328 – gravel)

Distance from George via Klaarstroom: 172 km (R407 – tar)

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Did you know that the town of Oudtshoorn once had the biggest Jewish (originating from Lithuania) community in South Africa?  About 100 immigrant families arrived in Oudsthoorn between 1881 and 1890, after fleeing persecution in their country, as the town held many business propositions due to the feather boom.

In Baron van Reede street, tucked away behind some trees and almost unseen, are a beautiful sandstone synagogue.

SWARTBERG CIRCLE ROUTE

Take your time and drive over the famous Swartberg Mountains, lying just to the North of Oudtshoorn,  to Prince Albert in the Groot Karoo while marvelling at all the different cliff formations and the Cango valley down below.  Return via the spectacular Meringspoort and De Rust. 

Allow a whole morning to complete this route. 

You can either have some morning tea or lunch in Prince Albert or you can pack a picnic basket and enjoy it at one of the spots in Meiringspoort.  Cape Nature provides clean bathroom facilities and running water at these shadey spots. 

VISIT A MUSEUM TO ESCAPE FROM THE SUN

When the harsh Karoo sun is getting at you there are a couple of museums that you can visit.  A very interesting one, yet quite unknown, is the homestead of CJ Langenhoven, one of the well-known sons of Oudtshoorn.  He was the composer of parts of our national anthem.

The Le Roux Townhouse in High Street is also interesting to visit to see what life was like in the early years of Oudtshoorn.

If you follow the link SANDSTEEN ROETE, OUDTSHOORN you can read more about all the interesting buildings in town.

GRUNDHEIM WINES

You can treat your taste buds and experience wine products, witblits and gin like never before.  

Grundheim is  famous for their hand crafted Naakte (an Afrikaans word meaning without clothes) Naartjie gin as well as their famous witblits with its beautifully designed Bull Terrier logo’s.  The witblits is par to a Bull Terrier = rough,  tough and loyal and will never disappoint you.

Located on the R62 just 20 minutes outside Oudtshoorn you will have the opportunity to meet the friendly team at Grundheim.   Be responsible when you visit the winery – nominate a driver to take you home!

BUFFELSDRIFT  GAME LODGE

Enjoy a bushveld experience with stargazing in the heart of the Klein Karoo without the fear of contracting malaria.    Here you can sleep in elegance with the Swartberg mountains as your backdrop and spoil your loved one with a game drive.  An experience not to be missed.

They offer excellent package deals and even has a volunteer programme if you are interested. 

NOSTALGIE EATERY

If you are an adventurous eater and never tasted ostrich before, this is the place to visit! 

This eatery is famous for traditional South African food.  At Nostalgie you can experience typical South African cuisine if you ant to. Escape the Karoo heat and enjoy your lunch under a lovely sausage tree in the front garden while observing the comings and goings of a small town.

Go hungry as the menu has a good variety and the portions are generous.

ZIPLINING

If you fancy some alternative adrenaline there is a new activity on the scene in Oudtshoorn – ziplining.  It is guaranteed to provide fun and get the adrenaline flowing.  Less than one kilometer from the entrance to the Cango Caves you will find these passionate guys who know what they are doing.  It is ideal to combine it with a visit to the famous Cango Caves

They are open daily between 09:00 and 16:00.   Allow yourself about 2 to 3 hours for an enjoyable experience.

ADMIRE SOME SANDSTONE CRAFTMANSHIP

Oudsthoorn is also famous for its sandstone buildings. 

Being the ostrich capital of South Africa there are some stately sandstone houses, known as ostrich palaces, dating back to the booming ostrich feather era, dotted around town. 

“At first encounter the Karoo may seem arid, desolate and unforgiving, but to those who know it, it is a land of secret beauty and infinite variety.”

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 We set off in George at a leisurely pace with clear blue skies, travel over the Outeniqua Pass via Oudtshoorn and aim for Prince Albert on the other side of the Swartberg Mountains.   The road is quiet.  I think the people are recovering from the New Year’s parties …

Once over the Outeniqua Pass the temperature rises to 31 degrees Celsius in the Klein Karoo.  It has been quite a while since I last traveled the iconic Swartberg pass, a gravel road, on the R328 but as all the previous times we were rewarded with stunning views of the mountains and yet again I am in awe of the skills of Thomas Baines – son of the famous Andrew Geddes Baines who built Bain’s Kloof Pass and many more – who constructed the road from 1881 until 1888 through the Cape fold mountains.  Today the dry-stone retaining walls are still in place and almost 120 years old.

The 120 year old stone walls

Along the road we stop for a geocache or two that are still outstanding and I have time to take some pictures of the veld flowers that are in bloom at this time of the year.   Just a reminder – keep your eyes open for snakes and scorpions when you are walking in the veld.

Before we reach The Top we see a brandwag (usually a big male baboon) keeping watch over his clan  whilst basking in the sun!  For those of you who are not familiar with baboons – close the doors and windows of your car when alighting, because they are very curious and can cause havock in your vehicle.

When we arrive at the top of the pass, which is located at  33°21′8″S 22°2′45″E , some tourists are enjoying their lunch at the viewpoint and admiring the vistas towards the Karoo.  The road is busy and you have to keep an extra special  lookout for cyclists and motor cyclists in the dusty conditions.  (This is a very popular motorbike road so please do not cut corners)!

The pass is  famous due to the spectacular geology that is exposed at its Northern end as you descend down to Prince Albert to the valley floor. The contortions in the rock display astonishing anticlines and synclines, and the vivid red coloration of the surrounding Quartzite is remarkable.  The pass was declared a national monument in 1988.  Along the way there are relics of the old  prison, toll hut and other historical sites.  This was Thomas Baines’ last engineering masterpiece.

You will also find the turn off to Die Hel or Gamkaskloof on this road.  Do not be fooled – it is a mere 37 km, but adhere to the time given on the signboard.  It WILL take you (+-) two hours of slow travel on the narrow and winding road!  Today however we will not take the turn off as we have visited Gamkaskloof before and are aiming for Prince Albert.

Prince Albert is buzzing over lunchtime and after passing the beautiful Dutch Reformed Church in the Main Street  our choice falls on a succulent burger and German bokwurst on the stoep of the famous Swartberg Hotel.

In the late 19^th century South Africa had more than 2000 mills, some of which dated back to the time of the first European settlers. Today only a few hundred of these mills survive, and of these, only a handful have been described or recorded in any detail.  On our way back we stop at the historic water mill, at the Southern edge of the town, to take some pictures. The mill was built by HJ Botes and was taken over by NAA Alberts and remained in his family for three generations. The mill was declared a national monument in 1963.

I will keep you posted on some more exciting travels in 2015, but this is my story and my smiley to start an exiting new year!

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