Starting from George take the N12 towards Oudtshoorn.  As you drive up the Outeniqua Pass enjoy the soft green folds of the mountains, because soon you will leave it behind  you.  Once you have reached the top of the pass and descend on the other side into the Waboomskraal valley the Klein Karoo slowly unfolds all its secrets.  Take the Oudtshoorn turn-off as soon as you exit the Waboomskraal valley.

As you approach Oudtshoorn you will notice the blue haze of the Swartberg mountains on the horizon.  In winter it will be dusted with some snow and in summer the fynbos will be in full bloom.  There are several things to do in and around the town of Oudtshoorn, but we will be heading to Prince Albert via the Swartberg mountains.  Take the R328 out of town and follow the road through Schoemanshoek to the Cango Caves and the mountains. The route via the Swartberg mountains is a gravel road, which can sometimes be very rough, but is always very spectacular.  

We recommend that you plan your day to have lunch in Prince Albert and allow some time to visit some of the finest olive and fig farms, wineries and art galleries in the region.  Remember that this is a small town and some of the establishments might not be open on a Sunday so plan accordingly but what we can vouch for is that African Relish surely serves the best pizza in Prince Albert!

A Saturday morning is a good time to visit as you will catch the local market and the Fransie Pienaar museum open where you will find an interesting pamphlet about all the different gable styles of Prince Albert. Take a walk or drive through town and identify them all.

To complete your circle route return via the tarred road (R407), passing Klaarstroom, back to George. Stop at the Klaarstroom Hotel to get something cold (or hot if you travel in winter) and most of the time you will meet some interesting people at the hotel.

This tar route is (R407) a bit longer than the Swartberg route, but it takes you through the impressive Meiringspoort which changes it face many times a day depending where the shadows fall.  Allow some time to stop in the poort to admire the rock formations or take a walk to the waterfall and discover Herrie se klip. 

Continue with the  N12 past ostrich farms and feather palaces to Oudtshoorn and head back via the Outeniqua pass to George.  It is worthwhile to travel the N12 between George and Oudtshoorn in both directions as you will notice some different scenery going each way. 

oOo

Distance from George via Swartberg pass: 135 km (R328 – gravel)

Distance from George via Klaarstroom: 172 km (R407 – tar)

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There is a lesser known hiking trail called “Doringrivier” that takes you all the way to the Ronbinson Pass, which connects Mossel Bay and Oudtshoorn, but today we only planned to take a shorter day hike up and over the mountains to a nearby trig beacon.  Just as well, because with my unfit state I will never be able to complete a strenuous hike of 50 kilometres.  Even the hike to the trig beacon is uphill all the time.  (Remember that a trig beacon is normally at the highest point on a mountain!).

Reading a description of the hike they mentioned that you can maybe see  klipspringer, grey rhebuck, leopard and also some small rodents.  We did not see anything like that, only endless views of mountains and valleys covered with fynbos.  Once at the trig beacon, and our turn around point for the day, we could see the sun reflecting off the buildings as far away as Oudtshoorn.

The return trip was per se not easier, because you are constantly “breaking” on the downward slopes not to slip on the loose stones, hence I am saying wear sturdy shoes to support your feet and ankles.

Some tips for the hike:

• take some water with you for the hike, as you do not cross any streams at that altitude
• wear sturdy hiking shoes as there are a lot of loose stones on the footpath
• cell phone reception is not always obtainable on the hike
• take something warm as the weather changes quickly
• allow a whole morning/afternoon for the hike if you are not fit

Remember to do this hike you will have to obtain a permit from Cape Nature in Witfontein.

—oOo—

Another walk that we as a family enjoyed a lot was the hike along the beach to the shipwreck at Glentana Beach. Read more under the post A century old wreck

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We took the gravel road up the historic Montagu Pass. –  It is one of the four passes that traverse the Outeniqua mountains. You will stumble upon the old Toll House.  The gravel road leads up the 8km long pass and is signposted from the N12 towards Oudtshoorn.  Starting from the George side and travelling up the incline, it is the first and only building that you come across.

Until the building of the Outeniqua pass as we know it today, the Montagu pass was the main route between Cape Town and Grahamstown.

The Toll House dates back to the year 1855.  According to old records the toll was as follow:

During the winter of July 1855 the toll house was all but destroyed in a forest fire.  It was later repaired, and its thatched roof was replaced with corrugated iron. The corrugated iron is still visible today.   However over the years the stone work started to show its age. The Friends of the Old Toll House stepped in, got a stone mason, and restored it to what it is today.

On Saturday mornings The Friends of the Old Toll House sell pancakes and coffee to raise some much needed funds. The funds goes towards the upkeep and ongoing restoration of the old building and to preserve history.  Make the effort and stop for a traditional pancake and at the same time support a good cause!

—oOo—

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 Do you like golden oldies with a story?  Then this is just what you were looking for at Mauritz Lammers Antiques.  From crockery brick-a-brac to stately old furniture and much loved books.  Take your time to marvel at all the pieces on display and take some home if you wish.  You just might find something that you like here.

A good place to keep you busy on those unexpected rainy days.

Where?  On the N2 opposite the Sasol garage Kraaibosch, George.

THE OLD TOLL HOUSE ON THE MONTAGU PASS

This is a historic building that was lovingly restored by some local enthusiasts and also the very first toll road in the Garden Route.  On a Saturday morning you can have pancakes and coffee to support a worthy cause.

What to see?  Admire the lush green mountainside and fynbos.

WORLD FAMOUS POTTERY

 Did you know that the world renowned and sought after Wonki Ware factory is situated right in the heart of George?  Yes, those magnificent masterpieces that you buy at Poetry and the likes are made here right on our doorstep.  Spoil yourself and warm you heart by visiting the factory in York Street.

 Really?  You can pick up less than perfect pieces at reduced prices.

 CAST IN STONE

Near the top-end of York Street you will discover the stone church of St Marks Cathedral with its interesting history. Read more about it on another blog of mine under the heading St Marks. 

It is always difficult to tell the erratic times that it is open for visits, but try your luck!

Reason for a visit?  Because the stonework is well preserved and stained glass work is outstanding.

TAKE A WALK AT THE GARDEN ROUTE DAM

 If you feel like some exercise, take the family, the dog or a canoe down to the dam and enjoy the scenery.  Remember this is the Garden Route and we have four seasons in one day so check the weather forecast before leaving home and inform a friend of your estimated time back at base.

 Need to know: Remember for security reasons you have to sign in at the boom.  

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Then in 1826 when the second magistrate (Van der Riet) and his family was on holiday disaster struck.  Nearly the whole building was destroyed in a fire, but some parts could be saved and it was rebuilt.

History states that in 1897 the building was turned into a boarding house and in 1903 it took another change to become the Victoria Hotel which apparently served famous pub lunches.

Photo credit: George Herald Newspaper

Meanwhile Charles Sayers started a museum in a rented room in Courtney Street. The museum quickly expanded due to generous donations and moved to the Old Town House in Market Street, but soon these premises were also bursting it seems.

It was time for change once more.  The tourism boom arrived round about 1968 in the town of George.  There was a proposal to demolish the Drostdy to make way for a grand three storey hotel boasting three stars next to the door.  Luckily the demolition of the building was avoided when the municipality bought it in 1972 with the main purpose to establish a museum for George.  After extensive renovations, the doors opened in 1976 with Mr Sayers as the curator.

A 2016 view of the museum

The  museum was still expanding and the Sayers Hall was added in 1991 and the timber exhibition in the back garden was completed in 1993.

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 Museum times:
Monday – Friday:  08:00 – 16:30 and Saturdays: 09:00 -12:30

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In South Africa we have a tendency to rake up all the leaves – which my Malawian gardener is very good at by the way – to have a spotless garden in contrast to the European style where you get a leaf wonderland in autumn. Although I am a hardy South African I rather prefer the European image of a picture dotted with beautiful leafs.

Winter is slowly creeping in on us.  The days are getting shorter and chillier.  Very soon it will be time to get the fire going in the hearth, tuck in with a glass of red wine and a nice book.

—oOO—

Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower. —  Albert Camus

—oOo—

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Dan 100 jaar later in 1911 word daar op die hoek van Mark- en Hiberniastrate, ‘n gedenksaal opgerig wat vandag die Ingenieurs Departement van die George Munisipaliteit huisves.

Ek kruis die straat en stap na die witgeverfde Poskantoor met sy mooi houtdeure en kenmerkende rooi posbusse.  Nie net is dit in 1948 voltooi, maar spog ook met ‘n hout kloktoring.

Dan verder op in die straat kry ek onverwags, agter mooi ysterhekke in ‘n lowergroen tuin, ‘n glimps van die statige Bishops Lea, huis van die Diocese of George. Iets wat ek dink nie baie Georgiete van bewus is nie is dat die huis deur die bekende Sir Herbert Baker ontwerp is.

Die koffie geure van Beans about Coffee in Van Kervel Huis lok jou na binne.  Hier kan jy kies uit ‘n verskeidenheid koffiebone wat vars gemaal word terwyl jy wag.  Die geur oorreed my onmiddellik om een van die vele blends wat beskikbaar is te probeer.  Met lande van oorsprong soos Kenyia, Ethiopie en nog vele meer is dit maar moeilik om die lekkerste een te kies.

Maar ek stap aan.  Volgens geskrifte arriveer juf Christina van Niekerk in 1877 in  George met die visie van ‘n skool vir die omgewing.  Charles Bullock, wat ook baie van die sandsteen geboue in Oudtshoorn ontwerp het, dra sy deel in 1905 by tot die argitektoniese beeld van George en ontwerp die koshuis van die meisieskool wat ons sedert 1969 as die  Arts Theatre ken.

Reg langs hom is Oorskotjie wat deel van die skool kompleks gevorm het en dan volg Hurteria House wat as skool gedien het.  Ek verpoos ‘n oomblik in die koelte van die statige ou akkerbome op die sypaadjie.  Heerlik.

My draaipunt is aan die bopunt van Yorkstraat by die Drostdy wat in 1812 gebou is onder toesig van landdros Van Kervel.   In 1826 het die gebou egter afgebrand, maar in 1831 het dit tweede lewe gekry  toe William Hollet dit herstel het as sy privaat woning.   In die 19de eeu gryp Alex Fotheringham in om die gebou verder te laat herleef as die Victoria Hotel totdat die Munisipaliteit dit in 1972 gekoop het en as museum ingerig het.

Ek neem die pad aan die linkerkant van Yorkstraat af (rigting see se kant toe) verby die Landdroshof.  Voor die Toerisme Buro (ook die werk van ou Charles Bullock) staan ‘n ou slaweboom in die tuin.  As jy mooi kyk sal jy nog ‘n ketting aan die boom se stam sien.  Dit is op die dorp se eerste tennisbane opgerig.

Die volgende imposante plek wat my oog vang is Lache Huis by 120 Yorkstraat.  Dokter Charles Owen-Snow het in 1903 die mediese praktyk gekoop.  Hy word toe later ook die distriksgeneesheer en was die trotse eienaar van die eerste motor wat in George geloop het.  Vandag word die perseel onder andere as advokate kamers gebruik.

Weggesteek op die volgende hoek is die ou klip katedraal van St Marks wat deur die bekende Sophy Gray ontwerp is.  Die katedraal het ‘n ryke geskiedenis.  Dit is gebou deur drie klip skrynwerkers met klip wat aangery is vanaf Victoria Hoogte en in net 13 maande voltooi.  Soos so baie kerke in ons land is die deure van die katedraal ook vandag gesluit vir die publiek, maar agter die kerkie is daar ‘n ou begraafplaas met  ‘n paar interessante grafte.  Henry Fancourt White, die bouer van die Montagu pas,  is seker heel tevrede om hier ‘n laaste lêplek te kon vind.  Ook Koning Elizabeth het tydens haar staatsbesoek in 1948 hier ‘n draai afgelê.

Ek eindig by die Standard Bank gebou op die hoek van York- en Hiberniastraat  wat klaarblyklik in 1879 sy eerste tak hier geopen het na gerugte dat goud in die omgewing gevind is.  Hierdie gebou dateer uit 1939 en het opknappingswerk in 1978 en 1983 ondergaan.

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Arriving over the lunch hour on a sunny day I found the gardener attending to the lawn with love and care.  He only gave me a quick glance and carried on with his tasks at hand.

Today the little stone church stood out against the blue sky with picture opportunities aplenty.

This is another one of the legendary Sophy Gray churches. The design of the cathedral is based on the Littlemore Church near Oxford in England which was designed by Henry Jones Underwood.  Three stonemasons were used to build the cathedral and it was completed in only 13 months.  Without the modern technology and tools available that is not a bad accomplishment at all.

I could not take nice pictures of the stained windows, but it might be the oldest in South Africa as it dates back to before Van Riebeeck arrived in the Cape of Good Hope. This was apparently recovered from a church in Germany during the French Revolution, brought to England and then found its way to South Africa.

Wandering through the graveyard at the back of the cathedral I saw a number of historic graves; Bishop Sidwell, Henry Fancourt White – the builder of the Montagu Pass who died in 1866 – and Major H D Warden who founded Bloemfontein while serving as British Resident of the land beyond the Orange River.

Sophy Gray, who designed and built 53 churches in South Africa, was buried at St Saviour’s in Claremont.  This half an hour visit enriched my life as I learned something about our beautiful town which I can share with all of you out there.

After this visit I can tick another Gray church from my list!

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Here you can witness the incredible history, architecture and craftsmanship that are present at this stately building which is also declared a National Heritage site.

The church’s story starts a decade or so before it was inaugurated.  On 14 April 1832 Rev Ballot laid the first cornerstone of the building, but because of financial problems the building took twelve years to complete.  But then the church suffered the unwelcome event on 13 September 1905 when the steeple collapsed after 10 inches (+- 250 mm) of rain fell in three days.  The congregation bravely started with reconstruction work and the present bell was bought at the time. The London firm, Philipson and Stow, presented the congregation with the steeple clock.

As you exit the front doors of the church there is a historical old sundial next to the path of the main entrance which was erected by surveyor Edmore one and a quarter centuries ago.

The teak door of the main entrance was brought from Cape Town to George by ox wagon – not an easy task in those days!  Even today with the well developed road network it will take a week or two to transport it from Cape Town to George.  The present day organ dates back to 1879.  The high wooden ceiling is very impressive and the yellowwood  and stinkwood  for the ceiling, support pillars and galleries all came from local forests in Plettenberg Bay and Knysna. The pulpit was also constructed from stinkwood at a cost of R400, which I suspect in those days was quite a fortune.

Although a historical building the church is still active and sermons are held every Sunday.

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