Starting from George take the N12 towards Oudtshoorn.  As you drive up the Outeniqua Pass enjoy the soft green folds of the mountains, because soon you will leave it behind  you.  Once you have reached the top of the pass and descend on the other side into the Waboomskraal valley the Klein Karoo slowly unfolds all its secrets.  Take the Oudtshoorn turn-off as soon as you exit the Waboomskraal valley.

As you approach Oudtshoorn you will notice the blue haze of the Swartberg mountains on the horizon.  In winter it will be dusted with some snow and in summer the fynbos will be in full bloom.  There are several things to do in and around the town of Oudtshoorn, but we will be heading to Prince Albert via the Swartberg mountains.  Take the R328 out of town and follow the road through Schoemanshoek to the Cango Caves and the mountains. The route via the Swartberg mountains is a gravel road, which can sometimes be very rough, but is always very spectacular.  

We recommend that you plan your day to have lunch in Prince Albert and allow some time to visit some of the finest olive and fig farms, wineries and art galleries in the region.  Remember that this is a small town and some of the establishments might not be open on a Sunday so plan accordingly but what we can vouch for is that African Relish surely serves the best pizza in Prince Albert!

A Saturday morning is a good time to visit as you will catch the local market and the Fransie Pienaar museum open where you will find an interesting pamphlet about all the different gable styles of Prince Albert. Take a walk or drive through town and identify them all.

To complete your circle route return via the tarred road (R407), passing Klaarstroom, back to George. Stop at the Klaarstroom Hotel to get something cold (or hot if you travel in winter) and most of the time you will meet some interesting people at the hotel.

This tar route is (R407) a bit longer than the Swartberg route, but it takes you through the impressive Meiringspoort which changes it face many times a day depending where the shadows fall.  Allow some time to stop in the poort to admire the rock formations or take a walk to the waterfall and discover Herrie se klip. 

Continue with the  N12 past ostrich farms and feather palaces to Oudtshoorn and head back via the Outeniqua pass to George.  It is worthwhile to travel the N12 between George and Oudtshoorn in both directions as you will notice some different scenery going each way. 

oOo

Distance from George via Swartberg pass: 135 km (R328 – gravel)

Distance from George via Klaarstroom: 172 km (R407 – tar)

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You can start the trip at any point and travel in any direction.  It all depends on how you feel and where you are staying. 

Our starting point will be in George at the St Marks Cathedral at the top end of York Street.  Travelling towards the mountain you will find this little Anglican church on your right-hand side.   Some of the interesting facts is that the stained-glass windows came all the way from Germany.   It was recovered from a church in Germany during the French Revolution, brought to England and then found its way to South Africa.  The church dates back to the period of 1850 and is the oldest of the three churches that you will visit today.

In 1948 Queen Elizabeth also paid a visit to the cathedral on her Royal visit to the Union of South Africa.

Heading east towards Knysna you will make a stop in the charming village of Belvidere to visit the Holy Trinity church which originates from 1855. 

In early 1848, soon after Bishop Gray arrived in Cape Town, two affluent English-speaking Settlers from Knysna – Thomas Duthie and William Newdigate – road to Cape Town to impress on the Bishop the need of a clergyman in the region. The Bishop’s stone masons (Alexander Bern, Alexander Lawrence and his brother James) set out on 27 May 1851 and for the next six months stone was blasted from a nearby quarry and brought to the site. By the middle of 1852 all the stonework was completed and they could begin with the roof, In 1853 the church opened for its first service. The consecration however had to be delayed until 1855 when Bishop Gray visited Knysna again.

After this turn right onto the N2 and head into Knynsa.  Here you will visit the St George’s Church in the main road. 

John Rex laid the foundation stone of this church in 1849 built on land donated by his father, George Rex, the founder of Knysna.   Construction of the church commenced in 1850 based on a plan adapted by Sophy Gray.  Two Scottish stonemasons, Lawrence and Bern, were commissioned to build the church.    

The church is open for private prayer on weekdays 08:00 – 15:00.

GPS coordinates:  S 34° 02.090 E 023° 03.021

Carry on with the N2 towards Plettenberg Bay. The Sophy Gray church with the loveliest setting is arguably St Peter’s in Plettenberg Bay. The church is situated close to a grove of trees and overlooks the ocean and the distant Tsitsikamma Mountains and is within easy walking distance from the town centre. You may also note that Saint Peter’s is built of a random selection of stones. Noteworthy features are the buttresses set at right angles to each corner of the west wall and the scissors truss roof.

GPS coordinates:  S 34° 03.249′ E 023° 22.463′

Sophy was a busy woman and designed about 53 churches scattered all over South Africa.    She was the first woman to practice architecture in South Africa, and one of the earliest to do so in the world. No mean feat for a woman who was a wife during the Victorian era, and a mother to five children.

There are also some other interesting churches to visit in the Garden Route. Have a look at San Ambrosio church in the forests of Knysna.

—oOo—

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There is a lesser known hiking trail called “Doringrivier” that takes you all the way to the Ronbinson Pass, which connects Mossel Bay and Oudtshoorn, but today we only planned to take a shorter day hike up and over the mountains to a nearby trig beacon.  Just as well, because with my unfit state I will never be able to complete a strenuous hike of 50 kilometres.  Even the hike to the trig beacon is uphill all the time.  (Remember that a trig beacon is normally at the highest point on a mountain!).

Reading a description of the hike they mentioned that you can maybe see  klipspringer, grey rhebuck, leopard and also some small rodents.  We did not see anything like that, only endless views of mountains and valleys covered with fynbos.  Once at the trig beacon, and our turn around point for the day, we could see the sun reflecting off the buildings as far away as Oudtshoorn.

The return trip was per se not easier, because you are constantly “breaking” on the downward slopes not to slip on the loose stones, hence I am saying wear sturdy shoes to support your feet and ankles.

Some tips for the hike:

• take some water with you for the hike, as you do not cross any streams at that altitude
• wear sturdy hiking shoes as there are a lot of loose stones on the footpath
• cell phone reception is not always obtainable on the hike
• take something warm as the weather changes quickly
• allow a whole morning/afternoon for the hike if you are not fit

Remember to do this hike you will have to obtain a permit from Cape Nature in Witfontein.

—oOo—

Another walk that we as a family enjoyed a lot was the hike along the beach to the shipwreck at Glentana Beach. Read more under the post A century old wreck

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We took the gravel road up the historic Montagu Pass. –  It is one of the four passes that traverse the Outeniqua mountains. You will stumble upon the old Toll House.  The gravel road leads up the 8km long pass and is signposted from the N12 towards Oudtshoorn.  Starting from the George side and travelling up the incline, it is the first and only building that you come across.

Until the building of the Outeniqua pass as we know it today, the Montagu pass was the main route between Cape Town and Grahamstown.

The Toll House dates back to the year 1855.  According to old records the toll was as follow:

During the winter of July 1855 the toll house was all but destroyed in a forest fire.  It was later repaired, and its thatched roof was replaced with corrugated iron. The corrugated iron is still visible today.   However over the years the stone work started to show its age. The Friends of the Old Toll House stepped in, got a stone mason, and restored it to what it is today.

On Saturday mornings The Friends of the Old Toll House sell pancakes and coffee to raise some much needed funds. The funds goes towards the upkeep and ongoing restoration of the old building and to preserve history.  Make the effort and stop for a traditional pancake and at the same time support a good cause!

—oOo—

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 Do you like golden oldies with a story?  Then this is just what you were looking for at Mauritz Lammers Antiques.  From crockery brick-a-brac to stately old furniture and much loved books.  Take your time to marvel at all the pieces on display and take some home if you wish.  You just might find something that you like here.

A good place to keep you busy on those unexpected rainy days.

Where?  On the N2 opposite the Sasol garage Kraaibosch, George.

THE OLD TOLL HOUSE ON THE MONTAGU PASS

This is a historic building that was lovingly restored by some local enthusiasts and also the very first toll road in the Garden Route.  On a Saturday morning you can have pancakes and coffee to support a worthy cause.

What to see?  Admire the lush green mountainside and fynbos.

WORLD FAMOUS POTTERY

 Did you know that the world renowned and sought after Wonki Ware factory is situated right in the heart of George?  Yes, those magnificent masterpieces that you buy at Poetry and the likes are made here right on our doorstep.  Spoil yourself and warm you heart by visiting the factory in York Street.

 Really?  You can pick up less than perfect pieces at reduced prices.

 CAST IN STONE

Near the top-end of York Street you will discover the stone church of St Marks Cathedral with its interesting history. Read more about it on another blog of mine under the heading St Marks. 

It is always difficult to tell the erratic times that it is open for visits, but try your luck!

Reason for a visit?  Because the stonework is well preserved and stained glass work is outstanding.

TAKE A WALK AT THE GARDEN ROUTE DAM

 If you feel like some exercise, take the family, the dog or a canoe down to the dam and enjoy the scenery.  Remember this is the Garden Route and we have four seasons in one day so check the weather forecast before leaving home and inform a friend of your estimated time back at base.

 Need to know: Remember for security reasons you have to sign in at the boom.  

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SPOT #1 : EBB AND FLOW (NORTH)

 Situated on the northern banks of the Touw river it falls within the Garden Route National Park, but day visitors are welcomed.  You will be rewarded with some shade under old wild fig trees, a demarcated fire pit, clean ablution facilities and a Knysna Loerie (Turaco) or two.

Need to know:  Report to reception and pay your day visitor fee.  If you have a SANPARKS Wild Card you are exempted from the  day visitor fee (Currently R40 per person for South African citizens).

SPOT #2 : GLENTANA BEACH

 With great views over the beach and sea you will find this spot in Kusweg (Beach Road), Glentana.  The chances are good that you will spot some dolphins frolicking in the waves.

Be prepared and take an umbrella as the trees do not provide ample shade for a whole day out and about enjoying the sun and sea.   There are no facilities on the picnic spot itself, but a brisk walk down the road and you will find ablutions near the main parking area of Glentana beach.  At the main parking area there is also outdoor showers to wash off all the sea water and sand.

This is also a great spot to take those sunset pictures!

Need to know:  There are no shops in Glentana, so take everything that you need with you.

SPOT # 3 : JUBILEE CREEK

For a forest experience pack the kids and head for the forest behind Rheenendal.   Relax on the grass with a blanket and a book while the children amuse themselves in the creek which flows through the picnic site.

Wooden picnic tables and ablutions are provided.  Go early as this is a popular spot over weekends.

Need to know  Obtain and pay your entry permit at the gate before you follow the gravel road to Jubilee Creek.

SPOT # 4 : KRISJAN SE NEK

 Situated next to the road on Kom se Pad, Knysna  This scenic drive was made famous by Dalene Matthee in her books.  This is one of just a few spots where you can have a picnic on this route.  Only three wooden tables with fire grids are provided.  Ablutions are in the form of a long drop.

 Need to know:  Make sure your fire is doused when you leave as this is in a sensitive indigenous forest area.   Fires can spread fast and wide as was the case in the recent Knysna Fires in 2017!

SPOT # 5 : ISLAND LAKE

 When you travel from George to Knysna on the N2 you will spot this lekker picnic spot on your left-hand side.  Follow the Hoekwil turnoff from the N2 and turn to your right on the gravel road just before the railway line.  There are no trees, but thatched umbrella style structures provide shade …… if you arrive early.  Otherwise take a gazebo to provide some shelter.

Pack everything you need for the day.  The nearest shops and fuel is in Wilderness Village.

Need to know:  This is a popular spot for water lovers with boats.   Take care when you are in the water!!

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This is one of the places right on our doorstep, but that we have never visited before.  So off we go –  not for a beer but for a milkshake.  I must admit it does sound a bit strange to have a milkshake at a brewery, but it worked for me.  I had a Take a Break (stuffed with some chunks of KitKat), hubby enjoyed a Nutcracker (smothered with Nutella) and the not so little one had an Astrophysics (you guessed it – filled with lots of Astros).

Perusing the menu I was quite surprised at all the delicious and tempting dishes on offer. You can indulge in an Elvis Presley breakfast, Biltong and Blue Rock Salad or a Chilly Popper to name a few items on the menu.  The table next to us had some burgers which looked out of this world and with beer names like Irish Gaelic and Classic Weissbier we will have to revisit in the future.

See you soon at the brewery!

Business Hours:        Monday to Saturday until 10 PM

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# 1  DOLPHIN’S POINT

Maybe it is time to stop at Dolphin’s Point on the N2 to admire the scenic old train bridge that spans the dark waters of the Kaaimans river and enjoy the sweeping view towards Leentjiesklip.   While standing at the viewpoint in the late afternoon you may have a surprise glimpse of the dolphins returning from their feeding grounds.

CAUTION:

This is at times a high mugging area – please be vigilant when moving around in this area

Cost:  Free fresh air!

# 2 THE CHOO-TJOE

The Transnet Museum with its trains from yester year revokes memories from my childhood when I fell asleep on the rhythmic clic-clac of the train’s wheels.  This outing will keep the children, and the child in you, busy for some time.  Also consider a power van outing!

Cost:  A small entrance fee is charged.

# 3  ROMANTIC BY HEART?

Do you have a romantic soul?  Sip a sundowner and take a moonlight hike on the unspoilt beaches at Glentana.

Cost:  Pack your own picnic basket

# 4  STRAWBERRIES & CREAM

Although this one sounds like Wimbledon it is right on our doorstep and far cheaper than the England option.  Here you can pick your own strawberries,  find your way in a maze and afterwards enjoy some of the strawberry treats on offer at the little coffee shop on the premises.  Spend an enjoyable day out at Redberry Farm in Blanco!

Cost:  Yes

# 5  THE WRONG CONTINENT?

Take the road to Wilderness Heights and find the view point at the map of Africa tucked away in Remskoen Street.   You will also find the local paragliding launch site nearby.

Cost:  Free

# 6 A COZZY, COKE AND KAYAKS

Feeling adventurous?  Put on your cozzy, hire a striking yellow kayak and meander the waterways of the Garden Route.

Cost:  Free if you take your own or hire one at Eden Adventures

# 7 CATCH UP ON HISTORY

Do a bit of research and catch up on the interesting history of our town.  A visit to the museum at the top of York Street will provide some interesting insight to a bygone woodcutters era.  Also read my blog Historiese George (Afrikaans only) for interesting tit bits.

Cost:  Entrance to museum is free

# 8 SAASVELD FORESTRY COLLEGE

Follow the signposts to NMMU’s Saasveld campus and the first Forestry Institute in South Africa where bush buck roam between buildings and students.  Maybe Lady Luck is on your side  and you will be afforded the opportunity to spot the elusive Knysna Loerie displaying its red wings in flight.

Cost:  Free –  you only need to sign in at the security gate of the campus

Follow the following link to learn about the fascinating history of this institution.

https://www.geocaching.com/geocache/GC4XC7C_saasveld?guid=feee9580-02cb-4d94-821c-fdda8ca42568

# 9  EXPLORE SOME MOUNTAIN PASSES

Follow the N9/N12 and stop to enjoy the lush green mountain sides to the north and on a clear day, looking south,  you will see the sea in the distance.  Or if you are not in a hurry take the old Montagu Pass (gravel) which links Herold and George and enjoy the scenery.

Cost:  Free

# 10  ENJOY SOME BEER TASTING

Waboomskraal is famous for its hops farmers who supply most of the hops to SAB for your special brew.  Nowadays, as is the trend,  smaller breweries are popping up everywhere.  Also try our local Robertson Brewery in town!

Cost:  Not for free!

# 11  WHAT ABOUT SOME WINE?

There is not many wine farms around in the Garden Route , but on the north facing slopes of Cradock peak you will find the gem of Herold Wines with stunning mountain views! This is a perfect place to get away from the beaches when you had too much sun.  My favourite wine?  Skaamp Skaap.  (In English it will translate to something like Shy Sheep …)

Cost:  Yes, you pay for the wine tasting 

# 12 HOP VALLEY FARM STALL

Clocking in at number 12 is this very popular roadside farm stall on the N9/N12. After being served by the friendly owners you can enjoy your scrumptious pizzas under the vines on the veranda or you can have it as take way if you are in a hurry.  This is a famous stop for locals and holidaymakers alike.

We are proud of our town so do your part and keep it clean!

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Calm down and don’t be in a hurry when following this road.  It is very narrow with only single lane traffic possible and no trailers, caravans and trucks are allowed and just a special warning:   it is  popular with  mountain bikers coming down hill at great speeds!  At several occasions we narrowly missed these projectiles.  I swear that they do not have nerves or they are so high on adrenaline that they do not think straight ….

Travelling with a 1962 Landy we do not have a choice other than to go slow, very slow and enjoy the ever changing views of the Outeniqua mountains covered in all shades of green, purple and pink as the flowers come into bloom.  This section is part of Cape Nature so no flower picking and/or removal of any plants are allowed.

Along the route there are several boards marking historic places on the pass such as Moertjiesklip, Die Noute and at Smidswinkel where you will find some remains of the blacksmith shop.  Note the road’s edge that still boasts the original stone walls built by 250 Italian prisoners over a four year period and are still in good condition.

Montagu Pass served as the main road over the Outeniquas for more than 100 years and it was only with the completion of the Outeniqua Pass in 1951 that this old pass became no more than a scenic route enjoyed by locals and tourists alike.  You got to love life if you drive a Land Rover!!!

For more interesting facts on the history of the Montagu Pass you can read the geocache listing at :

https://www.geocaching.com/geocache/GC5PGET_historic-montagu-pass?guid=ff297682-8362-43c2-959a-9d53d4928c73

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Dan 100 jaar later in 1911 word daar op die hoek van Mark- en Hiberniastrate, ‘n gedenksaal opgerig wat vandag die Ingenieurs Departement van die George Munisipaliteit huisves.

Ek kruis die straat en stap na die witgeverfde Poskantoor met sy mooi houtdeure en kenmerkende rooi posbusse.  Nie net is dit in 1948 voltooi, maar spog ook met ‘n hout kloktoring.

Dan verder op in die straat kry ek onverwags, agter mooi ysterhekke in ‘n lowergroen tuin, ‘n glimps van die statige Bishops Lea, huis van die Diocese of George. Iets wat ek dink nie baie Georgiete van bewus is nie is dat die huis deur die bekende Sir Herbert Baker ontwerp is.

Die koffie geure van Beans about Coffee in Van Kervel Huis lok jou na binne.  Hier kan jy kies uit ‘n verskeidenheid koffiebone wat vars gemaal word terwyl jy wag.  Die geur oorreed my onmiddellik om een van die vele blends wat beskikbaar is te probeer.  Met lande van oorsprong soos Kenyia, Ethiopie en nog vele meer is dit maar moeilik om die lekkerste een te kies.

Maar ek stap aan.  Volgens geskrifte arriveer juf Christina van Niekerk in 1877 in  George met die visie van ‘n skool vir die omgewing.  Charles Bullock, wat ook baie van die sandsteen geboue in Oudtshoorn ontwerp het, dra sy deel in 1905 by tot die argitektoniese beeld van George en ontwerp die koshuis van die meisieskool wat ons sedert 1969 as die  Arts Theatre ken.

Reg langs hom is Oorskotjie wat deel van die skool kompleks gevorm het en dan volg Hurteria House wat as skool gedien het.  Ek verpoos ‘n oomblik in die koelte van die statige ou akkerbome op die sypaadjie.  Heerlik.

My draaipunt is aan die bopunt van Yorkstraat by die Drostdy wat in 1812 gebou is onder toesig van landdros Van Kervel.   In 1826 het die gebou egter afgebrand, maar in 1831 het dit tweede lewe gekry  toe William Hollet dit herstel het as sy privaat woning.   In die 19de eeu gryp Alex Fotheringham in om die gebou verder te laat herleef as die Victoria Hotel totdat die Munisipaliteit dit in 1972 gekoop het en as museum ingerig het.

Ek neem die pad aan die linkerkant van Yorkstraat af (rigting see se kant toe) verby die Landdroshof.  Voor die Toerisme Buro (ook die werk van ou Charles Bullock) staan ‘n ou slaweboom in die tuin.  As jy mooi kyk sal jy nog ‘n ketting aan die boom se stam sien.  Dit is op die dorp se eerste tennisbane opgerig.

Die volgende imposante plek wat my oog vang is Lache Huis by 120 Yorkstraat.  Dokter Charles Owen-Snow het in 1903 die mediese praktyk gekoop.  Hy word toe later ook die distriksgeneesheer en was die trotse eienaar van die eerste motor wat in George geloop het.  Vandag word die perseel onder andere as advokate kamers gebruik.

Weggesteek op die volgende hoek is die ou klip katedraal van St Marks wat deur die bekende Sophy Gray ontwerp is.  Die katedraal het ‘n ryke geskiedenis.  Dit is gebou deur drie klip skrynwerkers met klip wat aangery is vanaf Victoria Hoogte en in net 13 maande voltooi.  Soos so baie kerke in ons land is die deure van die katedraal ook vandag gesluit vir die publiek, maar agter die kerkie is daar ‘n ou begraafplaas met  ‘n paar interessante grafte.  Henry Fancourt White, die bouer van die Montagu pas,  is seker heel tevrede om hier ‘n laaste lêplek te kon vind.  Ook Koning Elizabeth het tydens haar staatsbesoek in 1948 hier ‘n draai afgelê.

Ek eindig by die Standard Bank gebou op die hoek van York- en Hiberniastraat  wat klaarblyklik in 1879 sy eerste tak hier geopen het na gerugte dat goud in die omgewing gevind is.  Hierdie gebou dateer uit 1939 en het opknappingswerk in 1978 en 1983 ondergaan.

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