Close to the well-known Kurland, situated in The Craggs, an escape with fireflies and fairies await. Turning off the Nature’s Valley Road, you are greeted by a laid-back setup with a feeling mixed between backpackers and glamping.

Firefly Falls is a relaxed accommodation option close to Plettenberg Bay. If you are looking for a bit of a glamping spoil without breaking the bank, then this is your kind of place. At R690-R890 per night, the luxury glamping tents, like Dusky Flycatcher, is reasonably priced. You can sleep in the comfort of a warm bed, with electric blankets for winter time and a fan for summer. The luxury glamping tent is not equipped with it’s own bathroom, but you have options when it comes to ablutions. You can have a bath in the forest, in the Forest Bathroom or you can choose to shower with the fairies in the Fairy Bathroom. Make sure you take your own cutlery and crockery and if you have forgotten something, you can always pay the communal kitchen a visit.

Sitting around a fire or lying in your tent at night, the night sounds are filled with a buzz from the nearby town. While you are on the edge of the forest, and can soon get lost in your own thoughts, Firefly is a backpacker family-friendly style accommodation. You might soon find yourself surrounded by families enjoying the open spaces with children playing on the perfectly mowed lawn, friends enjoying the hot tub/pool and families utilizing the communal entertainment area.

Lying in the hammocks, reading your book, practising your putting on the mini green, having a picnic on the grass or taking a walk in the forest to the Waterfall. This is a place where you come to relax and recharge. Although we have chosen the luxury glamping option for our visit this time around, camping space is aplenty and ranges from R150-R250 per person depending on season and site size. The ablutions and communal kitchen are clean (quite an important thing for us) and the staff is extremely friendly and helpful.

If you are looking for a quick getaway, not too far from civilization and you are not too picky as to whom you share your space with, Firefly Falls is the perfect place for you. They do offer various other accommodation options and even a Volunteer program. It is easily reachable with a normal sedan car and is also biker-friendly for those adventure bikers looking for a stay-over on their Garden Route trips.

We enjoyed our stay and can recommend this for anyone who is looking to get away with the family or a group of friends.

Note:
– Has communal entertainment area
– Has communal kitchen
– Car is parked in parking area
– Offers electric blankets & extra blanket throws
– Daily cleaning of amenities

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Earlier this month we were invited to a festival that would normally be frowned upon in our household. Why? Well, I honestly do not have an answer for you. Maybe because we don’t see ourselves as being on a high enough level (whatever level that is) or we simply would not want to attend, because reading books for a couple of days and listening to people reading books is straight out boring!

Oh how wrong could we be! This is the perfect place to be in the middle of winter, all snuggled up in an old Victorian Hotel in the middle of the Karoo, with winter woolies and fires crackling in the background. Yes, we braved the cold and headed to the Karoo town of Cradock for the weekend of 17-21 June to attend the Schreiner: Karoo Writers Festival.

Upon arrival we soon bumped into the likes of Tony Jackman and Sally Andrew. Within minutes we found ourselves attending a story-telling session with Chris Marais and Julienne du Toit. These two people are the authors of the fabulous Karoo Roads series and they soon took us on a journey where several small Karoo towns were brought to life with vibrant pictures and their personal encounters with the people who keep these towns alive. The journey came to an end too soon and it was time to wine-and-dine like royals in the Albert Dining Hall of the iconic Victoria Manor.

For a moment we felt like we were part of the who’s-who as we were met by true Karoo hospitality from the brilliant staff who wined and dined us fine some fine food, all while rubbing shoulders with the likes of Etienne van Heerden and his wife enjoying an evening meal. The three course meal that Lisa Kerr and her staff so deliciously prepared for us, ranged from refreshing Springbok carpaccio, to pork belly, roasted potatoes, and brandy tart. The menu was filled with so many choices and the more we ate, the more starstruck we became as we simply could not believe that we were amongst some of the greatest names in South African literature.

The first evening ended on a more lighter note with a professional juggler showing us the ropes (literally) and we were treated with a spectacular show in front of the Victoria Manor in Market Street. A true crowd pleaser.

After a good night’s sleep in our Tuishuis (read all about the famous Tuishuise and the iconic Victoria Manor hotel in our next article), it was time to meet for breakfast. We had a full day ahead with a variety of “acts” all lined up. Great was our excitement when we bumped into the new internet sensation from Gqerberha, Dr. Dean Allen, his lovely wife Danica and of course the now famous Little Turtle as she is now know, their beautiful daughter. Dean was presenting/launching his Frontier Land books at the Writers Festival. If you ever thought (like me) that history is right out boring, you need to attend one of Dean’s sessions. Being travellers and doing some writing ourselves, we have used Dean’s Frontier Land Volume 1 and Volume 2 books as guides to exploring the Eastern Cape, but he has the ability to turn history into stories and you will soon find yourself locked in on a journey that you never want to end.

One of the highlights of the Festival was most definitely Des Lindberg. This legendary muso (that’s all I knew him for), got me hooked for two hours! Here I am, on a Saturday evening, listening to one of the biggest names in South African music history, telling us all about him and his wife, the late Dawn Lindberg’s journeys together. From music to theatre, local to abroad and everything in between. With Tony Jackman (editor of The Daily Maverick) as an anchor, it sure was an entertaining session. The hall was packed with everyone reminiscing and singing along to the tunes that the duo was known for. A the end of the night not a dry eye was in sight as an emotional book signing with the 81-year old legend came to an end with another exquisite dinner in the cosy dining are.

We have always known about the Schreiner: Karoo Writers Festival, but it was never a priority on our list. This year we recognized a couple of names and decided to attend to see what it was all about. Lisa Kerr and her amazing team has put together an unbelievable, intimate program for this very personal feel to the festival. With a limited number of people attending, all having one common interest….literature, this Festival is sure to grow into something bigger every year. Make sure to add the mid-winter Schreiner: Karoo Writers Festival to your calendar and make your way to Cradock. We will definitely be there in 2023 to have some Gluhwein with you!

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Normally all are in hurry and do not spend a lot of time intown apart from filling up on fuel, visit the loo and get something cold for the road.  With the sharp hike in the fuel prices, we started to explore closer to home.  The road took as to Laingsburg and Matjiesfontein.The most famous happening that put the town on the map and earned a place in history was probably the disastrous flood on 25 January 1981. With an annual rainfall of only 175 mm per year a flood was for sure not on the minds of this Karoo town when it started raining on 24 January 1981.  The Buffalo River burst its bank and with the confluence of the Wilgehout, Baviaans and Buffalo Rivers near the railway bridge disaster struck and 184 residents lost their lives and 184 houses were destroyed.  10 survivors from this flood were found in the Floriskraal Dam about 21  km form town.  You can visit the small Vloed Museum in town that tells the sad story of that day.  Note that most of the exhibit is in Afrikaans.

Tucked away behind the Shell garage is a stone church with an interesting steeple – to me it looks like icing on a cake. It dates back to 1905 and stood the test of the flood waters of 1981. Amazingly the sermon Ds Jacobs delivered that same Sunday morning of the flood remained preserved in his notebook in his flooded study. He, however, lost his life.

When you enter the town from Ladismith’s side you will pass under the railway bridge which are now dressed with rainbow colours.  If you are looking for a photo opportunity this spot makes a nice backdrop for pictures.

As you leave town driving northwards to Beaufort West you will see a blockhouse that dates back to 1900 and the Anglo Boer War.  Blockhouses were normally strategically placed alongside the railway line which was of major importance during the war.  You cannot enter the blockhouse but stop in the parking bay and admire the skill with which it was built (33°10’32.41″ S 20°59’08.06″ E)

The area is also known to produce some of the finest garlic in the country.  These products are stocked at Hakkiesdraad coffee shop in front of the museum.  I fell in love with the pepper garlic!

If you are interested in South African history and the Anglo Boer War follow the link below to read more on our visit to Matjiesfontein.

travelbucket.co.za/a-step-back-in-time-matjiesfontein

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Starting from George take the N12 towards Oudtshoorn.  As you drive up the Outeniqua Pass enjoy the soft green folds of the mountains, because soon you will leave it behind  you.  Once you have reached the top of the pass and descend on the other side into the Waboomskraal valley the Klein Karoo slowly unfolds all its secrets.  Take the Oudtshoorn turn-off as soon as you exit the Waboomskraal valley.

As you approach Oudtshoorn you will notice the blue haze of the Swartberg mountains on the horizon.  In winter it will be dusted with some snow and in summer the fynbos will be in full bloom.  There are several things to do in and around the town of Oudtshoorn, but we will be heading to Prince Albert via the Swartberg mountains.  Take the R328 out of town and follow the road through Schoemanshoek to the Cango Caves and the mountains. The route via the Swartberg mountains is a gravel road, which can sometimes be very rough, but is always very spectacular.  

We recommend that you plan your day to have lunch in Prince Albert and allow some time to visit some of the finest olive and fig farms, wineries and art galleries in the region.  Remember that this is a small town and some of the establishments might not be open on a Sunday so plan accordingly but what we can vouch for is that African Relish surely serves the best pizza in Prince Albert!

A Saturday morning is a good time to visit as you will catch the local market and the Fransie Pienaar museum open where you will find an interesting pamphlet about all the different gable styles of Prince Albert. Take a walk or drive through town and identify them all.

To complete your circle route return via the tarred road (R407), passing Klaarstroom, back to George. Stop at the Klaarstroom Hotel to get something cold (or hot if you travel in winter) and most of the time you will meet some interesting people at the hotel.

This tar route is (R407) a bit longer than the Swartberg route, but it takes you through the impressive Meiringspoort which changes it face many times a day depending where the shadows fall.  Allow some time to stop in the poort to admire the rock formations or take a walk to the waterfall and discover Herrie se klip. 

Continue with the  N12 past ostrich farms and feather palaces to Oudtshoorn and head back via the Outeniqua pass to George.  It is worthwhile to travel the N12 between George and Oudtshoorn in both directions as you will notice some different scenery going each way. 

oOo

Distance from George via Swartberg pass: 135 km (R328 – gravel)

Distance from George via Klaarstroom: 172 km (R407 – tar)

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The Great Karoo with its vast openness and many tumbleweeds, offers beautiful gems in between the hard rocks and dry veld.  Prince Albert is certainly one of these diamonds in the making.  Prince Albert was established in 1842 with town layout on the De Queekvaleij farm.  The farm was granted to Zacharias de Beer as a loan farm and the town was initially called Albertsbrug. It was renamed in 1845 to its current name of prince Albert, after the husband of Queen Victoria.

Spending a weekend in the town at the foot of the Heritage Site, which is the Swartberg Mountains, recharges the soul.  The many accommodation options, such as Skrywerskop, offer a country feel stay and the opportunity to stroll through the town from wherever you lay your head down at night.  Nothing is too far from the main road in this little town.  Referring to a little town will probably not stick for much longer.  The town is growing, that is for sure.  With the Zoom town concept taking flight with people streaming in from elsewhere to put down their roots and work remotely, this gem is not exclusive to non-South Africans anymore.  Where you used to mostly hear French, German, Italian and British accents to name a few, you will now hear more Cape Townian, Gauteng, Free State and Natal accents (if you can distinguish between them) while sitting at one of the eateries.  We replenished our hungry souls at African Relish for the night and while the venue seems like it was fully booked with reserved tables everywhere, we still had some of the best pizzas that I have had in a while.  Not your ordinary fast food restaurant pizzas, but flavours so unique to the Karoo.  This Cooking School is going the extra mile when it comes to quality.

Saturday morning is the perfect time to take a walk through the open Karoo plains.  While the breeze is still cool and the sun is starting to show its rays, the area around Gordon’s Koppie with its multiple zigzag trails is bound to get the blood flowing while pure air is filtering through your lungs.  Being very fond of anything rocky, we soon found ourselves dwindling off the paths after the most interesting rock formations. The Saturday Market where locals offer anything from good old-fashioned jaffels and pannekoek to artisanal fudge, preserves and fresh produces, makes for a good start to your day.  Nothing is rushed and a day’s planning will soon happen when you sip on your morning coffee while locals greet each other and strike up a conversation or two.

A good place to start is the Fransie Pienaar Museum.  Here you need a clear mind as there are so much information to process.  The ladies at the museum are so knowledgeable and will take you back all the way from where the town originated, and how the museum came into existence, up until the goldmining stint (yes, it seems like goldminers where everywhere) and the local rugby team.  We even found some articles in the museum that we still have in the house and some familiar surnames popped up of the role-players in the area.  The most interesting pieces for us, was some of the weaponry display behind bars in one of the rooms.  We could just imagine carry some of those rifles on horseback, it must’ve been challenging.  Right next door is the Prince Albert Tourism Info Centre and, which houses some leaflets of the activities and venues in the area.

A lot of time needs to be spent walking through town, admiring the different styles of gables.  Before doing this though, we would recommend you pay your R20 entrance fee to the Museum and get some more information on how the gables came about and which style suits which architect.  Suddenly, the Prince Albert Town has new meaning, and the old buildings are not only the restaurant that serves the nicest coffee or the one with the best ice-cream.  It gives another dimension to the history of the town. 

A weekend is just a little to short to do everything in town.  You would think that a small gem like this can be covered in two days, but you will only be scratching the surface.  Although we did pop in at Kevin de Klerk’s studio and were treated by a personal tour from him through town, we left the Gallery visits for next time.  The amazing bin project that Kevin is doing needed our attention and the level of art that he’s doing for worthy causes in town is incredible.  These bins are just bringing colour to the town and uplifting the community through awareness.  The Showroom theatre is another must-do.  If you are ever lucky enough to schedule your visit around a show in this little theatre, you will be treated to an intimate, small theatre vibe.  Here you can dress-up or dress-down and sit back while sipping on a glass of wine and be entertained by a local top-class act.

The Swartberg Mountains are the perfect opportunity for an early breakfast while the sun finds it’s way through the mountains onto the snaky road.  It was time to head home, but not without the last stop at the top of the Heritage Site.  It was a freezing 7 degrees with a chilly wind that almost blew the Jimny over.  We came to recharge in the royal Karoo Town, but left feeling that we have only seen the tip of the iceberg.  Our advice is to not rush your visit.  This is a place where you need to return to, multiple times.  Don’t try and fit too much in at once, you will be overwhelmed.   The tumbleweed in the Great Karoo that is Prince Albert, is not blowing anywhere.  It is growing and it is waiting for you!

-oOo-

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On our recent visit to Prince Albert we noticed these beautiful bins dotted all over town and we wanted to find out the story about it, because this is not just ordinary bins; it is designer bins with a message.  We tracked the master behind it down in the name of local artist Kevin de Klerk who hand paint it with care and precision.

Kevin tells us that there are a total of 33 bins in the village and some of them has the most interesting stories behind it.  There is the cat sterilization awareness bin with, of course, a beautiful cat on its side.  We all know that cat numbers can multiply astonishingly quickly if you do not keep a finger on it.  So, this one goes towards cat sterilization awareness.

The one that I love the most must be the little owl that promotes reading and loving books.  I have just listened to a program on the radio where the principal of a rural school explained the importance of reading for children as it develops so many other things in a child’s life.  I am fond of the “real” book smell and feel and thus this awareness bin speaks to me personally.  Please, if you have any old, unwanted, or preloved books at home and you do not know how to dispose of it bring it to Prince Albert. 

There are also some surprise bins that you would think what is the relevance of it as it looks a bit out of place.  Go and discover Eporia, the mermaid in front of Luttig’s Mill.   She is the water nymph that once lived in the dark water pools of Meiringspoort.  Eporia’s bin also has a secret sign at the bottom of the bin …..

If you want to get involved in this project contact Kevin de Klerk at Watershed, Prince Albert or visit him on his page at:  https://kevindeklerk.com/  As with  any charity drive there is always a need for resources and a helping hand.  At the moment Kevin sources drums and collect, paint and install it all at his own cost.  This all to the benefit for a better Prince Albert.  Please reach out and help him in this project.

As there are still many other interesting characters that once colour the palette of Prince Albert we will have to return to explore more.  A visit to the the Gamkapoort Dam is also on the list, but that will be on our next trip.

oOo

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The town came about between 1800 and 1900 when there were a war and a worldwide depression.  People of the area were bitterly poor due to rinderpest and drought and came to the church for help to survive.  In exchange for care the local people, under supervision of Japie Lutz, dug and built a canal system by hand.  This system is still in operation even today.  The system includes two tunnels of 97m and 175m respectively, turning the area to a greenery.

Augrabies Falls surely is the  most visited place in Kakamas, but there are some other interesting features that can also be enjoyed.  Close to town there is some waterwheels that nearly ended up in a bitter court case.  We were not lucky to see them in operation during our visit, but who knows, maybe next time. 

With the help of some local directions, we headed to Die Mas van Kakamas for dinner during loadshedding.  When we parked under the grape pergola  my jaw just dropped at the size of the grape bunches.  Sipping on award winning gin from Die Mas and munching on perfect pizzas, it was a perfect end to a long day on the road with some niggles of its own.   

On the road to Augrabies falls I could tick another box.  I have never before seen Quiver trees or Kokerbome in Afrikaans.  They almost look like a very big aloe but are fascinating creatures if you start reading up on it.  Here you will also find the Quiver Tree Route.

We popped in at Oranje Rivier Cellars just outside of Kakamas to taste some of the local wines in an air-conditioned tasting room.  Nothing lavish and flashy but were still treated with the same great hospitality and enthusiasm from the staff.  Some we liked (bought a box from the Hedgehog range) and some we did not like.  The area produces some fine wines exclusively for the export market.

Time to conclude our visit to Kakamas and return home.  We stopped at several farmstalls along the route as the temperature was starting to climb around 11 o’clock. The most visible one is surely the Pink Padstal which was packed to the rafters so it was quick in and out to buy some local raisins before we hit the road. 

We will return to the area to explore the region further as we felt more than  welcome on our first visit to area.  Thank you, Kakamas, you made an impression on us.

oOo

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Recently Amore Bekker from RSG asked who knows where Rietbron is.  I could reply with an answer that I have twice been to this populated area (population approximately 1 184 in 2011).  I think with our revisit eight years later in 2021 the population even declined further as it was noticeable that also the only guesthouse closed down since then.

With an early start from our base in George we crossed the Outeniqua mountains into the Klein Karoo.  First we made a quick stop at Karoo Lusern Slaghuis, one of the best kept secrets in the Klein Karoo, to stock up on some prime goodies for the road – biltong!  Stocked with padkos we were ready to explore some less travelled roads.

The road via Oudtshoorn and Meiringspoort (N12) to Rietbron is 226 km long and Google Maps say it will take you about 3 hours and 7 minutes.  Being on a solo women’s trip we were not in a hurry and stopped a gazillion times to take pictures of the desolate feeling that you experience and wind pumps and flowers…… longer travel time for us!

Rietbron reminds me of those small towns that you always see in cowboy movies – dry and dusty.  We arrived during midday on a Saturday.  It was either siesta time or everyone went shopping in Willowmore.  We parked right in front of the church in the shade of the steeplechase to enjoy our padkos.  The only movement we noticed was at a spaza shop and with COVID going around we opted to steer clear.

We took a drive through the town, and like the little museum, we noticed that the school and police station is exceptionally neat and the grounds well kept.  It warmed my heart to see that although this town is on the outskirts of the Dr Beyers Naude Municipality it was very clean. 

Our return trip for the day was via the N9 and Willowmore with only 64 kilometres of gravel and lots of tar which makes travel time a bit faster.   

What could we tick of our travel list today? A church tower with a springbokkie at the top!

GPS coordinates:  32.8642° S, 23.1561° E

oOo

Note to fellow travellers: 

Take care when driving to Rietbron, the local farmers are friendly but they are flying on those gravel roads!

oOo

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For the moment we are making “safe” solo trips to discover the smaller towns of out beautiful country.  Some of these trips took us on some backroads to Rietbron in the Eastern Cape and Sutherland in the Northern Cape and Van Wykdsorp in the Western Cape.  All did not go without glitch though. 

On a leisurely round trip to Van Wyksdorp the little Zook’s battery decided to die on us when we stopped for the umpteenth time to snap something in the hope to get THAT perfect picture.  Now the roads to Van Wyksdorp are all gravel travel and big stretches are without cell phone reception that is not a problem for us as we have done this route many times.  However, on that Saturday our travel story unfolded differently. 

We parked at the lookout point with the Gourits river flowing down in the valley.  A beautiful spot.  This would be the last stop of the day before hitting tar at Herbertsdale and turning west, heading home.  It was about 4 o’clock and the shadows were getting longer and the air chillier.  Boom!  In Afrikaans they say “soos dood soos ‘n mossie” – that is how that battery played out on us.  Now plan A, B, C, D and maybe E was rattling through our heads. 

Shortly after our detrimental discovery a single elderly farming lady wizzed past us in her Suzuki Swift without even looking left or right, hurrying home, so no chance there to flag her down.  Over we went to plan B as the shadows got longer.  The young one decided to start walking back up the steep hill until wherever she gets a signal to try and get help.  We had no idea how far back the “wherever” would be so she started walking. The fault we made is that we did not state a time when she had to be back before we move on to plan C and D.

Our rule of thumb when we get bogged down in remote areas is that at least one person should stay at the vehicle in case help arrives. One hour passed by – no traffic, no young one – and the late afternoon chill is setting in.  So the mommy in me started calculating the sleeping arrangements in the Zook and what are we going to use to keep us warm and if there is still something to eat and drink before we settle in for the night.  As I was ruffling through our snack stash in the back of the Zook I heard some panting behind me.  The young one was back, sweating and puffing from her one kilometre jog to find that one bar reception on her cell phone …. and help.  This mommy was relieved to say the least!

Within in 20 minutes the help in the form of skinny girl with her white Hilux, loaded with some lucerne, arrived.  We were standing ready with jumper cables and within two ticks, each girl doing what is necessary,  the Zook was blown to life again.

The moral of the story? 

Travel prepared – extra food, water, something warm to wear even if the weather is sunny.  Luckily the mommy in me learnt this many years ago when we started out on our adventures.  This motto saved the day many a time.

Will we explore more on our own? 

For sure!  Some things you can avoid by going prepared; some things you cannot control like a battery that die on you.

oOo

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Running parallel with the new bridge over the N2 you will notice the old stone bridge to your left when driving eastwards.  Find the road to the old bridge and have a look at it.  I was quite impressed at the engineering skills considering the period in which it was built and the machinery available to create these types of structures.

The steel bridge built by Westwood Bailie Engineering Works from London and completed in 1879 so nearing its 150^th year soon.  Although the bridge’s length will not make the Guinness Book of Records, as it is only 0.46 kilometres long, it is still used by local farmers and pedestrians in the vicinity. 

Attempts to build a bridge over the Kei River started in 1877 when materials were shipped from London to East London and then carried by ox wagon to the site, but due to conflict with local people the building process was interrupted multiple times including the Frontier War.  From 1907 to 1917 the railway line was carried on a wooden bridge, but it washed away during a flood and thus had to be relocated to near the present day N2.

Thing was made easier for travellers.  Today there is a Shell Ultra City where you can buy your standard “garage pie” and coke and take a rest before commencing your trip on the treacherous Transkei roads. Take it slow and be on the lookout for pedestrian and stray animals.

Eventually the Kei River reaches the Indian Ocean as an estuary at Kei Mouth where you will still find a ferry transporting cars and pedestrians into rural Transkei, but more about the ferry crossing in another post.

Coordinates:  32°30’32.29″ S 27°58’48.60″ E

Altitude: 160 meters

oOo

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