It is time for sun, sea and sand and happy holidays again.  Vleesbaai 4×4 route is the perfect destination for those windy and cloudy days when the weather does not want to play along for a beach visit.   

Early morning when you are first on the route you will encounter many fresh spoor ­– some very cat-like (I was thinking in the direction of a vaalbos kat), small antelope, mice and birds.  As they say the early bird catches the worm or is it spoor in this case? 

The interesting thing about this route is that it changes according to the time of day that you visit.  Early morning the sand can be firm and easy to drive, but during the day it can become a different play field altogether when the dunes heat up and the sand gets progressively softer as the day develops.  It also depends a lot on who drove before ……

If you are a first timer, listen to the advice – deflate your tyres – although it might seem ridiculously low to you – just do it.  I can guarantee you that it will make a huge  difference on your driving ability of the dunes.    And lastly, listen to some more sound advice (and warning) from Riekie.  Do not use alcohol when you are on the dunes as he will not hesitate to banish you.  Not only will you spoil your own day, but you will also spoil the day for other members in the group.

The highlight of the day is always the last obstacle, the “long dune”.  Most of the time on the route is spent here,  attempting and accomplishing the “long dune”.  And it is great fun. In general it takes more than one attempt to conquer this infamous obstacle.  This is also where the men reckon boys and men are separated from each other …   So, ladies let men play as they will always be boys in their hearts and their toys are their toys.

The route is rather popular with holiday makers and numbers are limited during peak season to preserve the sensitive dunes.  So, remember to book with Riekie and his team in time for your Vleesbaai experience.  And no sorry, no dogs are allowed on the dunes.

Some golden rules:       

Do not veer off the route – the dunes are monitored by Nature Conservation

Do not litter – always apply the trash in, trash out attitude

No pets allowed – there are some smaller wildlife in the dunes

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• Which border post? In all our years of travel we found that it is much easier to enter/exit at smaller border posts.  At the bigger border posts, the officials are sometimes tired and irritated and will take their time to work through the processes.  Our experience is at the smaller posts they are friendlier and welcome a chat while doing their work.
• When? Try to avoid peak times, if possible, like month end, late Friday afternoon or popular public holidays like Easter.  Everybody is in a hurry and the queues are longer, the tempers flare quicker and willingness is shorter.
• Be positive! No matter how frustrated you get, try to smile and be friendly.  They are only doing their job.  A positive attitude goes a long, long way.
• Take your own pen. Pens are rarely supplied at most border posts. If you have your own, you can get a jump in the queue while filling out the form.
• Keep it simple. A clear plastic folder works wonders to keep all the documents together.
• Step out of your vehicle. When you get swamped by all the touts, step out of your vehicle, pick one, and tell him that you will contract him if he makes sure all the other touts disappear, agree on a price beforehand to go with you to customs, immigration, third party, police clearance and sometimes the health department.  In some places, the third party office can be a container hidden behind other buildings and difficult to find.  Keep a watchful eye here on your tout!
• Keep your eyes on your stuff. Even though the border officials may be above board, opportunistic thieves and pickpockets spot you long before you spot them. Make sure your vehicle is locked.  We have a standard habit of one of us stay at the vehicle while the other do the paperwork and then rotate if necessary.  Rather be safe than spoiling your trip from the word go.
• Money matters. Know the current Rand // USD exchange rate before you arrive at the border. There are APPS available for this purpose or phone a friend if needs be.   If possible, use local currency and give exact  It is easy to “not have change” available and is sometimes a standard answer (and can be very profitable)
• Never flash the amount of money you have on you – be discreet.    If you need to change money at the border, count it slowly and make sure you received the right amount.  There are “experts” out there with very swift hands.   We rather exchange Rand // USD before we leave home to avoid the risk of using money changers.
• Some borders do take bank cards, but on the other hand this is a great way to get your bank card cloned. Officials are not always willing to offer a card machine due to the “not have change” rule.  As in many situations – use your discretion!
• Check the stamp. Before you leave the counter make sure that the date stamps are correct.  You won’t be able to change anything easily once you leave.
• Obey the rules of the road. The areas around border crossings are particularly happy hunting grounds for traffic police.   Remember to stop at stop signs and stop behind the line even though they eagerly wave at you to come forward.
• Remember that as soon as you cross into another country you are on roaming charges for your cell phone.  If you plan to phone a lot rather buy a local SIM card – it is a lot cheaper.

Do you have any questions?  We will gladly give advice if you ask the question.

—oOo—

This is Part III in the series of articles.  Remember to read Parts I and II as well.

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# 1  DOLPHIN’S POINT

Maybe it is time to stop at Dolphin’s Point on the N2 to admire the scenic old train bridge that spans the dark waters of the Kaaimans river and enjoy the sweeping view towards Leentjiesklip.   While standing at the viewpoint in the late afternoon you may have a surprise glimpse of the dolphins returning from their feeding grounds.

CAUTION:

This is at times a high mugging area – please be vigilant when moving around in this area

Cost:  Free fresh air!

# 2 THE CHOO-TJOE

The Transnet Museum with its trains from yester year revokes memories from my childhood when I fell asleep on the rhythmic clic-clac of the train’s wheels.  This outing will keep the children, and the child in you, busy for some time.  Also consider a power van outing!

Cost:  A small entrance fee is charged.

# 3  ROMANTIC BY HEART?

Do you have a romantic soul?  Sip a sundowner and take a moonlight hike on the unspoilt beaches at Glentana.

Cost:  Pack your own picnic basket

# 4  STRAWBERRIES & CREAM

Although this one sounds like Wimbledon it is right on our doorstep and far cheaper than the England option.  Here you can pick your own strawberries,  find your way in a maze and afterwards enjoy some of the strawberry treats on offer at the little coffee shop on the premises.  Spend an enjoyable day out at Redberry Farm in Blanco!

Cost:  Yes

# 5  THE WRONG CONTINENT?

Take the road to Wilderness Heights and find the view point at the map of Africa tucked away in Remskoen Street.   You will also find the local paragliding launch site nearby.

Cost:  Free

# 6 A COZZY, COKE AND KAYAKS

Feeling adventurous?  Put on your cozzy, hire a striking yellow kayak and meander the waterways of the Garden Route.

Cost:  Free if you take your own or hire one at Eden Adventures

# 7 CATCH UP ON HISTORY

Do a bit of research and catch up on the interesting history of our town.  A visit to the museum at the top of York Street will provide some interesting insight to a bygone woodcutters era.  Also read my blog Historiese George (Afrikaans only) for interesting tit bits.

Cost:  Entrance to museum is free

# 8 SAASVELD FORESTRY COLLEGE

Follow the signposts to NMMU’s Saasveld campus and the first Forestry Institute in South Africa where bush buck roam between buildings and students.  Maybe Lady Luck is on your side  and you will be afforded the opportunity to spot the elusive Knysna Loerie displaying its red wings in flight.

Cost:  Free –  you only need to sign in at the security gate of the campus

Follow the following link to learn about the fascinating history of this institution.

https://www.geocaching.com/geocache/GC4XC7C_saasveld?guid=feee9580-02cb-4d94-821c-fdda8ca42568

# 9  EXPLORE SOME MOUNTAIN PASSES

Follow the N9/N12 and stop to enjoy the lush green mountain sides to the north and on a clear day, looking south,  you will see the sea in the distance.  Or if you are not in a hurry take the old Montagu Pass (gravel) which links Herold and George and enjoy the scenery.

Cost:  Free

# 10  ENJOY SOME BEER TASTING

Waboomskraal is famous for its hops farmers who supply most of the hops to SAB for your special brew.  Nowadays, as is the trend,  smaller breweries are popping up everywhere.  Also try our local Robertson Brewery in town!

Cost:  Not for free!

# 11  WHAT ABOUT SOME WINE?

There is not many wine farms around in the Garden Route , but on the north facing slopes of Cradock peak you will find the gem of Herold Wines with stunning mountain views! This is a perfect place to get away from the beaches when you had too much sun.  My favourite wine?  Skaamp Skaap.  (In English it will translate to something like Shy Sheep …)

Cost:  Yes, you pay for the wine tasting 

# 12 HOP VALLEY FARM STALL

Clocking in at number 12 is this very popular roadside farm stall on the N9/N12. After being served by the friendly owners you can enjoy your scrumptious pizzas under the vines on the veranda or you can have it as take way if you are in a hurry.  This is a famous stop for locals and holidaymakers alike.

We are proud of our town so do your part and keep it clean!

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 We set off in George at a leisurely pace with clear blue skies, travel over the Outeniqua Pass via Oudtshoorn and aim for Prince Albert on the other side of the Swartberg Mountains.   The road is quiet.  I think the people are recovering from the New Year’s parties …

Once over the Outeniqua Pass the temperature rises to 31 degrees Celsius in the Klein Karoo.  It has been quite a while since I last traveled the iconic Swartberg pass, a gravel road, on the R328 but as all the previous times we were rewarded with stunning views of the mountains and yet again I am in awe of the skills of Thomas Baines – son of the famous Andrew Geddes Baines who built Bain’s Kloof Pass and many more – who constructed the road from 1881 until 1888 through the Cape fold mountains.  Today the dry-stone retaining walls are still in place and almost 120 years old.

The 120 year old stone walls

Along the road we stop for a geocache or two that are still outstanding and I have time to take some pictures of the veld flowers that are in bloom at this time of the year.   Just a reminder – keep your eyes open for snakes and scorpions when you are walking in the veld.

Before we reach The Top we see a brandwag (usually a big male baboon) keeping watch over his clan  whilst basking in the sun!  For those of you who are not familiar with baboons – close the doors and windows of your car when alighting, because they are very curious and can cause havock in your vehicle.

When we arrive at the top of the pass, which is located at  33°21′8″S 22°2′45″E , some tourists are enjoying their lunch at the viewpoint and admiring the vistas towards the Karoo.  The road is busy and you have to keep an extra special  lookout for cyclists and motor cyclists in the dusty conditions.  (This is a very popular motorbike road so please do not cut corners)!

The pass is  famous due to the spectacular geology that is exposed at its Northern end as you descend down to Prince Albert to the valley floor. The contortions in the rock display astonishing anticlines and synclines, and the vivid red coloration of the surrounding Quartzite is remarkable.  The pass was declared a national monument in 1988.  Along the way there are relics of the old  prison, toll hut and other historical sites.  This was Thomas Baines’ last engineering masterpiece.

You will also find the turn off to Die Hel or Gamkaskloof on this road.  Do not be fooled – it is a mere 37 km, but adhere to the time given on the signboard.  It WILL take you (+-) two hours of slow travel on the narrow and winding road!  Today however we will not take the turn off as we have visited Gamkaskloof before and are aiming for Prince Albert.

Prince Albert is buzzing over lunchtime and after passing the beautiful Dutch Reformed Church in the Main Street  our choice falls on a succulent burger and German bokwurst on the stoep of the famous Swartberg Hotel.

In the late 19^th century South Africa had more than 2000 mills, some of which dated back to the time of the first European settlers. Today only a few hundred of these mills survive, and of these, only a handful have been described or recorded in any detail.  On our way back we stop at the historic water mill, at the Southern edge of the town, to take some pictures. The mill was built by HJ Botes and was taken over by NAA Alberts and remained in his family for three generations. The mill was declared a national monument in 1963.

I will keep you posted on some more exciting travels in 2015, but this is my story and my smiley to start an exiting new year!

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