At the moment the world is holdings its breath in anticipation of the corona virus outcome.  So what can you do while under lockdown?

You can be lazy and lie on the couch, watch series and get lazy.  My motto is to tackle only one task that I never get around to do or just always find an excuse for and get it done and dusted, but then thoughts wonder to travelling and I somehow still do not get around to completing my task. 

If you are hungry for a camping trip, but all the campsites are locked for safety reasons the next best thing to do is to unpack and check your camping equipment.  Get the kids involved and pitch the tent, check the zips and window gauze and give it a good waterproof washdown.  Put things aside that needs attention for another day when under lockdown.  Remember the aim is to keep busy!

We take time to plan the details our next off-road trip.  At the moment we are working on a trip to do the Ben 10 in the Eastern Cape mountains.  Hopefully we will be able to accomplish this before the end of the year still. 

While Googling I also discovered some live webcams.  Now I can take my own virtual trip around the world – from Alaska to Zambia. without being exposed to the virus!     Armchair travel at its best!  If you are curious to see what is happening in other parts of the world head over to:   https://www.skylinewebcams.com and https://www.explore.org to watch some wildlife action.

Lockdown also provides me the opportunity to edit pictures and compile some video clips that were pushed to the background for some time now due to other commitments, but now there is no excuse. Ride with us in the clip that we have compiled on the Saasveld Pass in the Garden Route.

And then my all-time favorite is to Google (and drool) about places that I have not been to yet.  The western part of Tanzania with Lake Tanganyika came up the other day when I Googled.  This destination for sure needs to be investigated more for a future trip into Africa ……

You see in the end it is not so bad to have the corona virus around.  It makes you slow down and appreciate what we have to our disposal.  On the flip side it is also really tough to be a travel addict and be restricted to your house, but this will also pass.

All travel plans are on pause, but dreams are on play!

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Check your tyres before you drive off. It sounds a bit foolish, but this can safe you some embarrassment if you just walk around your vehicle once to check if all your tyres are still okay and inflated to the correct pressure.  Now you are ready to hit the road and enjoy the rest of your trip.   

Tyre compressors and gauges at garages, especially in remote locations, are not always correct.  Be aware of that.  We have a habit of using our own tyre pressure gauge that we carry in our cubbyhole.   Part of our standard equipment includes a tyre repair kit and the knowledge of how to use when necessary.

When visiting a sandy location remember that it is way easier to drive early morning when the sand is still cold and hard.  When the sand warms up later in the day it gets more difficult to drive and accompanying that fact it also increases your fuel consumption.  This is especially an important fact if you have to budget, and carry your own fuel in remote locations.   When sand is thick and slow deflate your tyres.  It makes a huge difference on your driving ability.  It will also let you look like a pro.

Africa is a dusty continent.  Drive with your headlights on even during daytime.  Doing this you might get stopped by the local police who will tell you that it is illegal to have them on during time.  (At this point smile and be nice and say okay sorry and switch it off).   Switch them off while standing there, but as soon as you pull away put them back on.  This makes your visibility in dusty conditions better to other hectic drivers.  This saved us a couple of times on our expeditions in the past!

Gravel roads are in abundance wherever you travel in Africa. There are two things that you should remember when overtaking a vehicle.    Due to dust you are not always visible to the driver in front of you (remember the tip on the headlights) and move as far right as you possibly can when overtaking.  Drivers are not always in control of their vehicles …  Many a time we were taken by surprise on their moves on the road. 

Look ahead of you when you are driving and keep your eyes on the road surface.  If you see that the road widens at the edges, be sure that you will soon hit a pothole if you are not observant.  Changes in the colour of the tar road – becoming more red/white – is a sure sign that there is a pothole ahead. 

A night drive can sometimes be challenging as you have to keep a look out for all the of the above as well as stray animals wandering onto the road, because of no fences on the farms.  

The long and the short of this is keep your eyes open and be wide awake.  We know that African roads are not always on par with rest of the world, but this is part of the charm of the African continent.  Everything does not always work as they should.  Keep you cool and enjoy the ride!

Also read our post Going solo off the beaten track for more practical advice.

The post TIPS ON HOW TO NEGOTIATE AFRICAN ROADS appeared first on TRAVELBUCKET.

On the road to Tacugama

Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary is tucked away in the threatened Western Area Peninsula Forest Reserves on the edge of Freetown, capital of Sierra Leone.  The sanctuary spans about 100 acres (+- 40 hectares) of lush indigenous rain forests.

Arriving at the gate of Tacugama

In 1995 Bala Amarasekaran felt in his heart the desire, and had the vision, to rescue, confiscate and rehabilitate chimps of Sierra Leone that were in trouble.  So he abandoned his original career as an accountant and started up Tacugama.   Today the sanctuary take care of about 90 chimps with the help of a dedicated staff as well as volunteers from all over the world.  Much work is also done in the community through education and legal enforcement as it is illegal to hunt, capture, kill or in any way keep chimpanzees in Sierra Leone.

Some of the chimp families

For the staff at the sanctuary each rescued chimp becomes like family and has a story to tell like mischievous Kouze who was owned by a Russian peacekeeping officer of the United Nations.  He saw it fit that Kouze share his vodka and UN rations.  With some great difficulties Kouze was eventually brought to the centre in good health (living on the UN rations).  Through the adoption program that is run by Tacugama naughty Kouze can currently enjoy a healthy diet and more natural living conditions.  An adoption program via Tacugama’s website is available to improve conditions for Kouze and his mates.  So please visit www.tacugama.com to learn more about the program.

On the guided tour

In an ongoing research project in the area camera traps had been placed at various spots throughout the Park.  Great was the excitement when the images were collected and a rare tree pangolin was spotted.  Sadly it  carries the status of “vulnerable” on the data species list due to bushmeat hunting and the demand on international markets.  I hope this special guy will not run into that kind of trouble!

The rare tree pangolin
(Image credit: Tacugama)

Another interesting animal that was captured is the shy Black Duiker which became rare due to over-hunting.  Fortunately they are very adaptable animals and can live well in degraded habitats.

The black duiker shows up (Image credit: Tacugama)

The sanctuary also runs an eco lodge to generate much needed funds to look after the chimps. The lodge is situated within the protected area and have breathtaking views over the hills surrounding Freetown.

Tucked away in the thicket

At the time of my visit daily tours at the sanctuary started at 10:30 and 16:00 and lasted about 1.5 hour.  The cost of the tour for Sierra Leonean nationals were SLL20 000 and all other visitors SLL75 000 or USD15 for adults and USD5 for children.   Take note that all tours are strictly by appointment only so please phone ahead and make arrangements and arrive in good time.  The sanctuary can be contacted on:  +232(0)44625107 or email them at info@tacugama.com.

This was yet another unplanned smiley added to my travel bucket on a road less traveled!

You can also follow Tacugama  on  Twitter (@Tacugama) and find them on Facebook (Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary).

“People don’t take trips – trips take people.”
John Steinbeck

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 My first experience of Sierra Leone in 2011 was ten years after a bloody civil war (1991- 2001) and before the horrendous ebola outbreak in 2014 which is the largest in history.  Sierra Leone – a struggling country filled with friendly people with warm and welcoming hearts.

Flying over Africa enroute to Freetown

Crossing Africa on my flight from Johannesburg (via Nairobi and Accra with Kenya Air) to Freetown I sat next to a proud soldier who was on holiday from Afghanistan. He was super excited to see his family back home in Freetown after an absence of three years from his home country.   His eyes were shining bright and he could not wait to put his feet on home soil and hug his family once again. Oh yes, and me?   On a visit to hubby since this was his designated office for a year or two.

And we also made an unplanned stop in Camerone to refill enroute to Accra

Arriving at the old Lungi Airport I stepped into another world.  Welcome in Sierra Leone the country of the magnificent cotton tree and torrential rain and …. a bit a chaos.  First the necessary stamp at immigration, then on to the yellow fewer check point before you attempt to find your bag.  Once you have your bag, hold on to it.

The before and after look of the airport

After a final baggage check you step outside and meet the crowds.   Now everything turns into a bit of chaos as everyone is haggling and competing for your attention to carry your bag.

Chaos outside the old Lungi airport

 Everyone is eager to do business with  the passengers that arrive at Lungi as most visitors need to get to Freetown which is situated on the other side of the estuary.  For a first time traveller this can be a bit of a challenging experience, but I stood my ground until I found Lahai, my designated driver, that will see me to Freetown on the other side of the bay.

The choice of transport across the bay from Lungi to Freetwon

When I visited the choice to cross the bay was between the car ferry which goes to Kissy ferry terminal or the Pelican water taxi or the hovercraft, which was the quickest option, and arrives in Aberdeen.  (Note:  according to wikitravel.org the hovercraft seized its operation in 2014).  The crossing is an experience in itself as it can become unpleasant at times when the sea is rough and plastic gets entangled in the boat’s propeller.  Nevertheless an experience not to be missed.

Our accommodation for the visit was located next to the Man of War Bay with a view on the route to the harbour where every morning you wake up with the sound of big ships passing by to dock in the Freetown harbour.   On the odd occasion you will also spot the US Coast guard doing their anti piracy patrols in this part of the world.  This was part of my daily routine to keep track of when ships arrive and leave the bay.

Ships entering Africa’s biggest natural harbour

Like everywhere else in Africa a lot of the locals live off the sea. Fresh fish and sea food are aplenty in contrast to the availability of red meat at a price (unless you know where to find it!). The local fishers gained new respect from me.  Every day they go out with their wooden boats (some of them without engines) from the Man of War Bay battling the wind and high seas to make their daily catch to sell it on the beach in the late afternoon.

View on the Man of War Bay

Daily life here has a pace of its own.  Going to the shop creates interesting obstacles of its own and the trip more or less evolves like this.  First you have to shoo away the goats sleeping on the driveway to get into the road.  Then you drive like some drunkard as you swerve to avoid all the potholes in the road and at the same time avoid running over someone who is dodging the pools water that formed in the downpour.   But you will make it to the shop.

Resident goats on the drive way

The next challenge is to miss, one of the many, stray dogs that roam the streets.  On your way you will also see some war victims in wheelchairs battling the potholed roads in the rain.  Then the ever present police blockades,  especially popular over the Christmas period, that needs to be negotiated before you have to battle for a parking space at the shop.  Patience is the answer!

Free roaming dogs of the city

Like all other African cities the roads are poor and the traffic congested and moving at a snails pace.  Be patient, smile and enjoy the ride!

General street scenes

However living in Aberdeen we were lucky to have Lumley beach with its long sandy beaches at our doorstep.  Being  the closest beach to Freetown it is always busy and somewhat littered with all kinds of objects and plastic of various shapes and sizes.  For a day at the beach it is a good option to head further out of town to the less crowded beaches like Lakka and River No 2.

Lumley Beach

A lot has changed since my  first visit to Freetown – a new airport building was constructed and a lot of the roads were upgraded by the Chinese and big mines were put into operation creating a lot of jobs in the country.

 In my next post I will share more about my visit to Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary on the outskirts of Freetown and our Christmas at Lakka Beach.

 Somehow Sierra Leone sort of gets under your skin – you either love it or hate it.  But I loved the unique rhythm of Freetown!  Alas now all that remains is the good memories and friends I have made.  

Yet again a country not on my wish list, but I am grateful that I could pay a visit.

“The journey not the arrival matters.”
T.S. Eliot

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