Normally all are in hurry and do not spend a lot of time intown apart from filling up on fuel, visit the loo and get something cold for the road.  With the sharp hike in the fuel prices, we started to explore closer to home.  The road took as to Laingsburg and Matjiesfontein.The most famous happening that put the town on the map and earned a place in history was probably the disastrous flood on 25 January 1981. With an annual rainfall of only 175 mm per year a flood was for sure not on the minds of this Karoo town when it started raining on 24 January 1981.  The Buffalo River burst its bank and with the confluence of the Wilgehout, Baviaans and Buffalo Rivers near the railway bridge disaster struck and 184 residents lost their lives and 184 houses were destroyed.  10 survivors from this flood were found in the Floriskraal Dam about 21  km form town.  You can visit the small Vloed Museum in town that tells the sad story of that day.  Note that most of the exhibit is in Afrikaans.

Tucked away behind the Shell garage is a stone church with an interesting steeple – to me it looks like icing on a cake. It dates back to 1905 and stood the test of the flood waters of 1981. Amazingly the sermon Ds Jacobs delivered that same Sunday morning of the flood remained preserved in his notebook in his flooded study. He, however, lost his life.

When you enter the town from Ladismith’s side you will pass under the railway bridge which are now dressed with rainbow colours.  If you are looking for a photo opportunity this spot makes a nice backdrop for pictures.

As you leave town driving northwards to Beaufort West you will see a blockhouse that dates back to 1900 and the Anglo Boer War.  Blockhouses were normally strategically placed alongside the railway line which was of major importance during the war.  You cannot enter the blockhouse but stop in the parking bay and admire the skill with which it was built (33°10’32.41″ S 20°59’08.06″ E)

The area is also known to produce some of the finest garlic in the country.  These products are stocked at Hakkiesdraad coffee shop in front of the museum.  I fell in love with the pepper garlic!

If you are interested in South African history and the Anglo Boer War follow the link below to read more on our visit to Matjiesfontein.

travelbucket.co.za/a-step-back-in-time-matjiesfontein

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Starting from George take the N12 towards Oudtshoorn.  As you drive up the Outeniqua Pass enjoy the soft green folds of the mountains, because soon you will leave it behind  you.  Once you have reached the top of the pass and descend on the other side into the Waboomskraal valley the Klein Karoo slowly unfolds all its secrets.  Take the Oudtshoorn turn-off as soon as you exit the Waboomskraal valley.

As you approach Oudtshoorn you will notice the blue haze of the Swartberg mountains on the horizon.  In winter it will be dusted with some snow and in summer the fynbos will be in full bloom.  There are several things to do in and around the town of Oudtshoorn, but we will be heading to Prince Albert via the Swartberg mountains.  Take the R328 out of town and follow the road through Schoemanshoek to the Cango Caves and the mountains. The route via the Swartberg mountains is a gravel road, which can sometimes be very rough, but is always very spectacular.  

We recommend that you plan your day to have lunch in Prince Albert and allow some time to visit some of the finest olive and fig farms, wineries and art galleries in the region.  Remember that this is a small town and some of the establishments might not be open on a Sunday so plan accordingly but what we can vouch for is that African Relish surely serves the best pizza in Prince Albert!

A Saturday morning is a good time to visit as you will catch the local market and the Fransie Pienaar museum open where you will find an interesting pamphlet about all the different gable styles of Prince Albert. Take a walk or drive through town and identify them all.

To complete your circle route return via the tarred road (R407), passing Klaarstroom, back to George. Stop at the Klaarstroom Hotel to get something cold (or hot if you travel in winter) and most of the time you will meet some interesting people at the hotel.

This tar route is (R407) a bit longer than the Swartberg route, but it takes you through the impressive Meiringspoort which changes it face many times a day depending where the shadows fall.  Allow some time to stop in the poort to admire the rock formations or take a walk to the waterfall and discover Herrie se klip. 

Continue with the  N12 past ostrich farms and feather palaces to Oudtshoorn and head back via the Outeniqua pass to George.  It is worthwhile to travel the N12 between George and Oudtshoorn in both directions as you will notice some different scenery going each way. 

oOo

Distance from George via Swartberg pass: 135 km (R328 – gravel)

Distance from George via Klaarstroom: 172 km (R407 – tar)

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The Great Karoo with its vast openness and many tumbleweeds, offers beautiful gems in between the hard rocks and dry veld.  Prince Albert is certainly one of these diamonds in the making.  Prince Albert was established in 1842 with town layout on the De Queekvaleij farm.  The farm was granted to Zacharias de Beer as a loan farm and the town was initially called Albertsbrug. It was renamed in 1845 to its current name of prince Albert, after the husband of Queen Victoria.

Spending a weekend in the town at the foot of the Heritage Site, which is the Swartberg Mountains, recharges the soul.  The many accommodation options, such as Skrywerskop, offer a country feel stay and the opportunity to stroll through the town from wherever you lay your head down at night.  Nothing is too far from the main road in this little town.  Referring to a little town will probably not stick for much longer.  The town is growing, that is for sure.  With the Zoom town concept taking flight with people streaming in from elsewhere to put down their roots and work remotely, this gem is not exclusive to non-South Africans anymore.  Where you used to mostly hear French, German, Italian and British accents to name a few, you will now hear more Cape Townian, Gauteng, Free State and Natal accents (if you can distinguish between them) while sitting at one of the eateries.  We replenished our hungry souls at African Relish for the night and while the venue seems like it was fully booked with reserved tables everywhere, we still had some of the best pizzas that I have had in a while.  Not your ordinary fast food restaurant pizzas, but flavours so unique to the Karoo.  This Cooking School is going the extra mile when it comes to quality.

Saturday morning is the perfect time to take a walk through the open Karoo plains.  While the breeze is still cool and the sun is starting to show its rays, the area around Gordon’s Koppie with its multiple zigzag trails is bound to get the blood flowing while pure air is filtering through your lungs.  Being very fond of anything rocky, we soon found ourselves dwindling off the paths after the most interesting rock formations. The Saturday Market where locals offer anything from good old-fashioned jaffels and pannekoek to artisanal fudge, preserves and fresh produces, makes for a good start to your day.  Nothing is rushed and a day’s planning will soon happen when you sip on your morning coffee while locals greet each other and strike up a conversation or two.

A good place to start is the Fransie Pienaar Museum.  Here you need a clear mind as there are so much information to process.  The ladies at the museum are so knowledgeable and will take you back all the way from where the town originated, and how the museum came into existence, up until the goldmining stint (yes, it seems like goldminers where everywhere) and the local rugby team.  We even found some articles in the museum that we still have in the house and some familiar surnames popped up of the role-players in the area.  The most interesting pieces for us, was some of the weaponry display behind bars in one of the rooms.  We could just imagine carry some of those rifles on horseback, it must’ve been challenging.  Right next door is the Prince Albert Tourism Info Centre and, which houses some leaflets of the activities and venues in the area.

A lot of time needs to be spent walking through town, admiring the different styles of gables.  Before doing this though, we would recommend you pay your R20 entrance fee to the Museum and get some more information on how the gables came about and which style suits which architect.  Suddenly, the Prince Albert Town has new meaning, and the old buildings are not only the restaurant that serves the nicest coffee or the one with the best ice-cream.  It gives another dimension to the history of the town. 

A weekend is just a little to short to do everything in town.  You would think that a small gem like this can be covered in two days, but you will only be scratching the surface.  Although we did pop in at Kevin de Klerk’s studio and were treated by a personal tour from him through town, we left the Gallery visits for next time.  The amazing bin project that Kevin is doing needed our attention and the level of art that he’s doing for worthy causes in town is incredible.  These bins are just bringing colour to the town and uplifting the community through awareness.  The Showroom theatre is another must-do.  If you are ever lucky enough to schedule your visit around a show in this little theatre, you will be treated to an intimate, small theatre vibe.  Here you can dress-up or dress-down and sit back while sipping on a glass of wine and be entertained by a local top-class act.

The Swartberg Mountains are the perfect opportunity for an early breakfast while the sun finds it’s way through the mountains onto the snaky road.  It was time to head home, but not without the last stop at the top of the Heritage Site.  It was a freezing 7 degrees with a chilly wind that almost blew the Jimny over.  We came to recharge in the royal Karoo Town, but left feeling that we have only seen the tip of the iceberg.  Our advice is to not rush your visit.  This is a place where you need to return to, multiple times.  Don’t try and fit too much in at once, you will be overwhelmed.   The tumbleweed in the Great Karoo that is Prince Albert, is not blowing anywhere.  It is growing and it is waiting for you!

-oOo-

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On our recent visit to Prince Albert we noticed these beautiful bins dotted all over town and we wanted to find out the story about it, because this is not just ordinary bins; it is designer bins with a message.  We tracked the master behind it down in the name of local artist Kevin de Klerk who hand paint it with care and precision.

Kevin tells us that there are a total of 33 bins in the village and some of them has the most interesting stories behind it.  There is the cat sterilization awareness bin with, of course, a beautiful cat on its side.  We all know that cat numbers can multiply astonishingly quickly if you do not keep a finger on it.  So, this one goes towards cat sterilization awareness.

The one that I love the most must be the little owl that promotes reading and loving books.  I have just listened to a program on the radio where the principal of a rural school explained the importance of reading for children as it develops so many other things in a child’s life.  I am fond of the “real” book smell and feel and thus this awareness bin speaks to me personally.  Please, if you have any old, unwanted, or preloved books at home and you do not know how to dispose of it bring it to Prince Albert. 

There are also some surprise bins that you would think what is the relevance of it as it looks a bit out of place.  Go and discover Eporia, the mermaid in front of Luttig’s Mill.   She is the water nymph that once lived in the dark water pools of Meiringspoort.  Eporia’s bin also has a secret sign at the bottom of the bin …..

If you want to get involved in this project contact Kevin de Klerk at Watershed, Prince Albert or visit him on his page at:  https://kevindeklerk.com/  As with  any charity drive there is always a need for resources and a helping hand.  At the moment Kevin sources drums and collect, paint and install it all at his own cost.  This all to the benefit for a better Prince Albert.  Please reach out and help him in this project.

As there are still many other interesting characters that once colour the palette of Prince Albert we will have to return to explore more.  A visit to the the Gamkapoort Dam is also on the list, but that will be on our next trip.

oOo

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The town came about between 1800 and 1900 when there were a war and a worldwide depression.  People of the area were bitterly poor due to rinderpest and drought and came to the church for help to survive.  In exchange for care the local people, under supervision of Japie Lutz, dug and built a canal system by hand.  This system is still in operation even today.  The system includes two tunnels of 97m and 175m respectively, turning the area to a greenery.

Augrabies Falls surely is the  most visited place in Kakamas, but there are some other interesting features that can also be enjoyed.  Close to town there is some waterwheels that nearly ended up in a bitter court case.  We were not lucky to see them in operation during our visit, but who knows, maybe next time. 

With the help of some local directions, we headed to Die Mas van Kakamas for dinner during loadshedding.  When we parked under the grape pergola  my jaw just dropped at the size of the grape bunches.  Sipping on award winning gin from Die Mas and munching on perfect pizzas, it was a perfect end to a long day on the road with some niggles of its own.   

On the road to Augrabies falls I could tick another box.  I have never before seen Quiver trees or Kokerbome in Afrikaans.  They almost look like a very big aloe but are fascinating creatures if you start reading up on it.  Here you will also find the Quiver Tree Route.

We popped in at Oranje Rivier Cellars just outside of Kakamas to taste some of the local wines in an air-conditioned tasting room.  Nothing lavish and flashy but were still treated with the same great hospitality and enthusiasm from the staff.  Some we liked (bought a box from the Hedgehog range) and some we did not like.  The area produces some fine wines exclusively for the export market.

Time to conclude our visit to Kakamas and return home.  We stopped at several farmstalls along the route as the temperature was starting to climb around 11 o’clock. The most visible one is surely the Pink Padstal which was packed to the rafters so it was quick in and out to buy some local raisins before we hit the road. 

We will return to the area to explore the region further as we felt more than  welcome on our first visit to area.  Thank you, Kakamas, you made an impression on us.

oOo

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Recently Amore Bekker from RSG asked who knows where Rietbron is.  I could reply with an answer that I have twice been to this populated area (population approximately 1 184 in 2011).  I think with our revisit eight years later in 2021 the population even declined further as it was noticeable that also the only guesthouse closed down since then.

With an early start from our base in George we crossed the Outeniqua mountains into the Klein Karoo.  First we made a quick stop at Karoo Lusern Slaghuis, one of the best kept secrets in the Klein Karoo, to stock up on some prime goodies for the road – biltong!  Stocked with padkos we were ready to explore some less travelled roads.

The road via Oudtshoorn and Meiringspoort (N12) to Rietbron is 226 km long and Google Maps say it will take you about 3 hours and 7 minutes.  Being on a solo women’s trip we were not in a hurry and stopped a gazillion times to take pictures of the desolate feeling that you experience and wind pumps and flowers…… longer travel time for us!

Rietbron reminds me of those small towns that you always see in cowboy movies – dry and dusty.  We arrived during midday on a Saturday.  It was either siesta time or everyone went shopping in Willowmore.  We parked right in front of the church in the shade of the steeplechase to enjoy our padkos.  The only movement we noticed was at a spaza shop and with COVID going around we opted to steer clear.

We took a drive through the town, and like the little museum, we noticed that the school and police station is exceptionally neat and the grounds well kept.  It warmed my heart to see that although this town is on the outskirts of the Dr Beyers Naude Municipality it was very clean. 

Our return trip for the day was via the N9 and Willowmore with only 64 kilometres of gravel and lots of tar which makes travel time a bit faster.   

What could we tick of our travel list today? A church tower with a springbokkie at the top!

GPS coordinates:  32.8642° S, 23.1561° E

oOo

Note to fellow travellers: 

Take care when driving to Rietbron, the local farmers are friendly but they are flying on those gravel roads!

oOo

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For the moment we are making “safe” solo trips to discover the smaller towns of out beautiful country.  Some of these trips took us on some backroads to Rietbron in the Eastern Cape and Sutherland in the Northern Cape and Van Wykdsorp in the Western Cape.  All did not go without glitch though. 

On a leisurely round trip to Van Wyksdorp the little Zook’s battery decided to die on us when we stopped for the umpteenth time to snap something in the hope to get THAT perfect picture.  Now the roads to Van Wyksdorp are all gravel travel and big stretches are without cell phone reception that is not a problem for us as we have done this route many times.  However, on that Saturday our travel story unfolded differently. 

We parked at the lookout point with the Gourits river flowing down in the valley.  A beautiful spot.  This would be the last stop of the day before hitting tar at Herbertsdale and turning west, heading home.  It was about 4 o’clock and the shadows were getting longer and the air chillier.  Boom!  In Afrikaans they say “soos dood soos ‘n mossie” – that is how that battery played out on us.  Now plan A, B, C, D and maybe E was rattling through our heads. 

Shortly after our detrimental discovery a single elderly farming lady wizzed past us in her Suzuki Swift without even looking left or right, hurrying home, so no chance there to flag her down.  Over we went to plan B as the shadows got longer.  The young one decided to start walking back up the steep hill until wherever she gets a signal to try and get help.  We had no idea how far back the “wherever” would be so she started walking. The fault we made is that we did not state a time when she had to be back before we move on to plan C and D.

Our rule of thumb when we get bogged down in remote areas is that at least one person should stay at the vehicle in case help arrives. One hour passed by – no traffic, no young one – and the late afternoon chill is setting in.  So the mommy in me started calculating the sleeping arrangements in the Zook and what are we going to use to keep us warm and if there is still something to eat and drink before we settle in for the night.  As I was ruffling through our snack stash in the back of the Zook I heard some panting behind me.  The young one was back, sweating and puffing from her one kilometre jog to find that one bar reception on her cell phone …. and help.  This mommy was relieved to say the least!

Within in 20 minutes the help in the form of skinny girl with her white Hilux, loaded with some lucerne, arrived.  We were standing ready with jumper cables and within two ticks, each girl doing what is necessary,  the Zook was blown to life again.

The moral of the story? 

Travel prepared – extra food, water, something warm to wear even if the weather is sunny.  Luckily the mommy in me learnt this many years ago when we started out on our adventures.  This motto saved the day many a time.

Will we explore more on our own? 

For sure!  Some things you can avoid by going prepared; some things you cannot control like a battery that die on you.

oOo

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Running parallel with the new bridge over the N2 you will notice the old stone bridge to your left when driving eastwards.  Find the road to the old bridge and have a look at it.  I was quite impressed at the engineering skills considering the period in which it was built and the machinery available to create these types of structures.

The steel bridge built by Westwood Bailie Engineering Works from London and completed in 1879 so nearing its 150^th year soon.  Although the bridge’s length will not make the Guinness Book of Records, as it is only 0.46 kilometres long, it is still used by local farmers and pedestrians in the vicinity. 

Attempts to build a bridge over the Kei River started in 1877 when materials were shipped from London to East London and then carried by ox wagon to the site, but due to conflict with local people the building process was interrupted multiple times including the Frontier War.  From 1907 to 1917 the railway line was carried on a wooden bridge, but it washed away during a flood and thus had to be relocated to near the present day N2.

Thing was made easier for travellers.  Today there is a Shell Ultra City where you can buy your standard “garage pie” and coke and take a rest before commencing your trip on the treacherous Transkei roads. Take it slow and be on the lookout for pedestrian and stray animals.

Eventually the Kei River reaches the Indian Ocean as an estuary at Kei Mouth where you will still find a ferry transporting cars and pedestrians into rural Transkei, but more about the ferry crossing in another post.

Coordinates:  32°30’32.29″ S 27°58’48.60″ E

Altitude: 160 meters

oOo

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Airlines reduced their capacity to adhere to safety regulations (and tickets more expensive) and all of a sudden crowded beaches and touristy spots do not sound as appealing anymore.  So, what will be appealing now?  I think that solo journeys to more isolated places and camping in isolated spot away from your neighbour will become more popular in the future than ever before.  It is as if camping and overlanding was invented for this COVID-19 pandemic. 

With the necessary precautions (mask and sanitizer at the ready of course) you can still fit in some of the road trips that were on your bucketlist for many years.   You do not even need to cross borders and take tests as there are enough places to explore in our own beautiful country.

Still need some suggestions where to go?

• Take a trip to experience the moon landscapes of the Richtersveld National Park.  The chances are good that you will not encounter anyone while in the park.  This is not for the feint hearted though as the conditions are quite extreme and you have to be self-reliant.
• Do the Shipwreck trail along the West-Coast.  This 4×4 route is a one-way drive along sandy, under-used roadways between Koingnaas and Kleinzee on the north-west part of South Africa’s coastline, known as the Diamond Coast.  Expect lots of sand.
• Book a farmstay in the Karoo and get back to basics again.  We recently visited A Blesfontein Experience near Sutherland and totally enjoyed the slow life of the area. 
• Or take a trip to the glacial floors on the farm Oorlogskloof in the Nieuwoudtville district.    It is hard to believe that in another lifetime this area was covered with ice.

South Africa has so many undiscovered remote areas to enjoy as a traveller.  I think this is the time to explore our own country.

Remember the most important thing is to keep moving forward and never stop exploring.  Follow us on Facebook and Instagram for some secrets and inspiration for your next trip.

oOo

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The town is surrounded with fynbos, ericas and buchu is growing wild.  Fynbos  is also one of the main export products of the area.  Buchu is that  very distinctive smell that you get when you approach Riversdale on the N2.  The  natural beauty of the area is also  very popular with hikers and boasts several hiking trails at Boosmansbos and Grootvaderbosch.

To the north the Garcia pass (R323) links Riversdale with Ladismith in the Klein Karoo.  It is also a Thomas Bain pass where he used convict labour.  After Bain completed the Tradouw pass 107 convicts were transferred to the Garcia pass.  However, things did not progress without problems.  Most of the convicts were either old or sick and progress was slow.  This surely put Bain to the test as he had his hands and mind full with Cogmagnskloof and Pakhuis pass.  The pass was named after Maurice Garcia, an 1820 settler of Jewish-Portuguese descent.    The pass is about 17 kilometres with several bends.  It is not a busy road so take the time to pull over at the viewpoints to drink in the scenery.   You will not be disappointed.

We also discovered a little stone church designed by the famous Sophy Gray.  From my previous post you would have noticed that I am on a mission to tick the boxes on her church list.  Read more about her other churches in the Garden Route @ Day-trip-from-George-Sophy-Grays-footsteps

For the train enthusiasts there is a Class 7 steam locomotive parked in the centre of town in front of the municipality.  I always wonder how they get it there as it ways tonnes. 

There were a couple of famous people who either were born or grew up here and put the town on the map.  Who are they?  Dalene Matthee, author of several books on the Knysna forest attended the local High School.  She was also laid to rest in the Knysna forest where you can visit her memorial.  Willem Botha a younger singer and actor.  Dr Cecil Moss who was a qualified medical doctor (anesthetist) who was part of the medical team who removed the heart from the first heart transplant donor.  He was also vice-captain of the Springboks in1949 and head coach for South Africa from 1982 to 1989.  CJ Langenhoven, another famous author and father of the Afrikaans language, also spent two years of his school life in Riversdale. 

We ended our exploring trip at the old jail, now turned into a cute little coffee shop, (S 34° 05.490 E 021° 15.788) that has an interesting story.   During 1860 the government bought the the premises from the Barry family and turned the trading store into a police station, court and jail all on one site.  The jail warden also lived on site.  The only execution ever in Riversdale also took place in this complex.  Gilbert Hay of Heidelberg, who murdered his  mother with a hammer for some drinking money, met the end of his life here.  Today the gallows are displayed at one of the backrooms.  Go and have a look and do not just pass by, you might be surprised at what you discover.

We would love to hear from you if there are some other interesting places to explore in Riversdale. 

oOo

Make this year a year of discovery

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