Earlier this month we were invited to a festival that would normally be frowned upon in our household. Why? Well, I honestly do not have an answer for you. Maybe because we don’t see ourselves as being on a high enough level (whatever level that is) or we simply would not want to attend, because reading books for a couple of days and listening to people reading books is straight out boring!

Oh how wrong could we be! This is the perfect place to be in the middle of winter, all snuggled up in an old Victorian Hotel in the middle of the Karoo, with winter woolies and fires crackling in the background. Yes, we braved the cold and headed to the Karoo town of Cradock for the weekend of 17-21 June to attend the Schreiner: Karoo Writers Festival.

Upon arrival we soon bumped into the likes of Tony Jackman and Sally Andrew. Within minutes we found ourselves attending a story-telling session with Chris Marais and Julienne du Toit. These two people are the authors of the fabulous Karoo Roads series and they soon took us on a journey where several small Karoo towns were brought to life with vibrant pictures and their personal encounters with the people who keep these towns alive. The journey came to an end too soon and it was time to wine-and-dine like royals in the Albert Dining Hall of the iconic Victoria Manor.

For a moment we felt like we were part of the who’s-who as we were met by true Karoo hospitality from the brilliant staff who wined and dined us fine some fine food, all while rubbing shoulders with the likes of Etienne van Heerden and his wife enjoying an evening meal. The three course meal that Lisa Kerr and her staff so deliciously prepared for us, ranged from refreshing Springbok carpaccio, to pork belly, roasted potatoes, and brandy tart. The menu was filled with so many choices and the more we ate, the more starstruck we became as we simply could not believe that we were amongst some of the greatest names in South African literature.

The first evening ended on a more lighter note with a professional juggler showing us the ropes (literally) and we were treated with a spectacular show in front of the Victoria Manor in Market Street. A true crowd pleaser.

After a good night’s sleep in our Tuishuis (read all about the famous Tuishuise and the iconic Victoria Manor hotel in our next article), it was time to meet for breakfast. We had a full day ahead with a variety of “acts” all lined up. Great was our excitement when we bumped into the new internet sensation from Gqerberha, Dr. Dean Allen, his lovely wife Danica and of course the now famous Little Turtle as she is now know, their beautiful daughter. Dean was presenting/launching his Frontier Land books at the Writers Festival. If you ever thought (like me) that history is right out boring, you need to attend one of Dean’s sessions. Being travellers and doing some writing ourselves, we have used Dean’s Frontier Land Volume 1 and Volume 2 books as guides to exploring the Eastern Cape, but he has the ability to turn history into stories and you will soon find yourself locked in on a journey that you never want to end.

One of the highlights of the Festival was most definitely Des Lindberg. This legendary muso (that’s all I knew him for), got me hooked for two hours! Here I am, on a Saturday evening, listening to one of the biggest names in South African music history, telling us all about him and his wife, the late Dawn Lindberg’s journeys together. From music to theatre, local to abroad and everything in between. With Tony Jackman (editor of The Daily Maverick) as an anchor, it sure was an entertaining session. The hall was packed with everyone reminiscing and singing along to the tunes that the duo was known for. A the end of the night not a dry eye was in sight as an emotional book signing with the 81-year old legend came to an end with another exquisite dinner in the cosy dining are.

We have always known about the Schreiner: Karoo Writers Festival, but it was never a priority on our list. This year we recognized a couple of names and decided to attend to see what it was all about. Lisa Kerr and her amazing team has put together an unbelievable, intimate program for this very personal feel to the festival. With a limited number of people attending, all having one common interest….literature, this Festival is sure to grow into something bigger every year. Make sure to add the mid-winter Schreiner: Karoo Writers Festival to your calendar and make your way to Cradock. We will definitely be there in 2023 to have some Gluhwein with you!

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Recently Amore Bekker from RSG asked who knows where Rietbron is.  I could reply with an answer that I have twice been to this populated area (population approximately 1 184 in 2011).  I think with our revisit eight years later in 2021 the population even declined further as it was noticeable that also the only guesthouse closed down since then.

With an early start from our base in George we crossed the Outeniqua mountains into the Klein Karoo.  First we made a quick stop at Karoo Lusern Slaghuis, one of the best kept secrets in the Klein Karoo, to stock up on some prime goodies for the road – biltong!  Stocked with padkos we were ready to explore some less travelled roads.

The road via Oudtshoorn and Meiringspoort (N12) to Rietbron is 226 km long and Google Maps say it will take you about 3 hours and 7 minutes.  Being on a solo women’s trip we were not in a hurry and stopped a gazillion times to take pictures of the desolate feeling that you experience and wind pumps and flowers…… longer travel time for us!

Rietbron reminds me of those small towns that you always see in cowboy movies – dry and dusty.  We arrived during midday on a Saturday.  It was either siesta time or everyone went shopping in Willowmore.  We parked right in front of the church in the shade of the steeplechase to enjoy our padkos.  The only movement we noticed was at a spaza shop and with COVID going around we opted to steer clear.

We took a drive through the town, and like the little museum, we noticed that the school and police station is exceptionally neat and the grounds well kept.  It warmed my heart to see that although this town is on the outskirts of the Dr Beyers Naude Municipality it was very clean. 

Our return trip for the day was via the N9 and Willowmore with only 64 kilometres of gravel and lots of tar which makes travel time a bit faster.   

What could we tick of our travel list today? A church tower with a springbokkie at the top!

GPS coordinates:  32.8642° S, 23.1561° E

oOo

Note to fellow travellers: 

Take care when driving to Rietbron, the local farmers are friendly but they are flying on those gravel roads!

oOo

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Running parallel with the new bridge over the N2 you will notice the old stone bridge to your left when driving eastwards.  Find the road to the old bridge and have a look at it.  I was quite impressed at the engineering skills considering the period in which it was built and the machinery available to create these types of structures.

The steel bridge built by Westwood Bailie Engineering Works from London and completed in 1879 so nearing its 150^th year soon.  Although the bridge’s length will not make the Guinness Book of Records, as it is only 0.46 kilometres long, it is still used by local farmers and pedestrians in the vicinity. 

Attempts to build a bridge over the Kei River started in 1877 when materials were shipped from London to East London and then carried by ox wagon to the site, but due to conflict with local people the building process was interrupted multiple times including the Frontier War.  From 1907 to 1917 the railway line was carried on a wooden bridge, but it washed away during a flood and thus had to be relocated to near the present day N2.

Thing was made easier for travellers.  Today there is a Shell Ultra City where you can buy your standard “garage pie” and coke and take a rest before commencing your trip on the treacherous Transkei roads. Take it slow and be on the lookout for pedestrian and stray animals.

Eventually the Kei River reaches the Indian Ocean as an estuary at Kei Mouth where you will still find a ferry transporting cars and pedestrians into rural Transkei, but more about the ferry crossing in another post.

Coordinates:  32°30’32.29″ S 27°58’48.60″ E

Altitude: 160 meters

oOo

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The year 1867 marks the year that diamonds were discovered along the Orange River and fortune hunters flocked to the mining sites via every known route.  The Webster Hotel was conveniently situated and benefitted from this as they offered accommodation, food, a smithy and a well-stocked retail shop on the premises.  Business was good.  When and how the name changes from Webster’s hotel to Ann’s Villa came about is not clear from old papers, but today it is still known as Ann’s Villa. 

From old records it seems that a school was started 24 years after the villa was built.  The teacher for the school, stayed in the first room upstairs in the villa.  It seems that the Websters also paid the teacher’s salary.  The school closed down after World War II probably because the numbers fell below 11 students. 

The Webster sons joined their father in doing business.  Samuel managed the shop and financial affairs as well as the postal agency, James was the farmer and supplied fresh produce to the shop.  William was the carpenter and George was the builder and blacksmith at Ann’s Villa.  John (Snr) ran the bakery.

It is interesting to note on an inventory from a stocktaking during 1918 some of the brands you still find today are on the list:  Tiger oats, Nugget polish, Packo tea, Royal baking powder and Springbok tobacco.  The type of business that was conducted at the Villa also changed over the years.  According to the books the blacksmith’s work declined as motor vehicle came onto the scene. Since 1927 car repairs are recorded in the shop’s ledgers and fuel was sold until 1957. Today the shop can be viewed by appointment only.

Ann’s Villa first became a post office in 1896 and later on demoted to a postal agency in 1910.  From 1955 it was a postal agency again and remained thus until its closure on 18 December 1961.

The Villa is within an easy drive from Port Elizabeth and offer something different to do on a windy day in the Friendly City. Pack snacks for your road trip as no refreshments are available at Ann’s Villa.

On the day of our visit entry to the small museum was R20 per person (cash only).

DIRECTIONS TO GET TO THE VILLA

From Port Elizabeth take the N2 to Cradock, pass the village of Paterson, travel over the Olifantsnek Pass and turn left at the Ann’s Villa road signed.  Continue on the R335 at at the first crossroad turn left and after 1 kilometer you will find Ann’s Villa.

ooOOoo

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Picture yourself on a crisp Saturday morning, blue skies above you, on the back of a Safari vehicle, driving through some export quality citrus orchards with some foreign languages filling the air. 

That is exactly how we felt when we joined Crisscross Adventures in Addo for an amazing day filled with activities that makes you want more.  First up was the river safari.  I had a preconceived idea of what this might entail and with my very limited canoeing experience that I obtained as a kid, using some rented canoes on a Sunday morning outing in Wilderness, I was excited to see whether my picture was close to what they had to offer. 

On the way to the drop-off point further up the Sundays river, the guide was sharing his knowledge of the working citrus farm and we made a quick stop at one of the oldest pack houses in the area.  Excitement was starting to build as our group got to know each other a bit.  Soon we found ourselves at the drop-off point.  We all geared up with insect repellent and the necessary protection against the African sun before grabbing a nice ice cold bottle of water and jumped into the canoes.  Some maneuvering here and there and we were on our way, all rowing happily down the river.  The pace was soon slowed down as the adrenaline started to wear off and we found ourselves lazing around on the water, doing some bird watching.  The bird life is incredible here next to the water with species such as the African Darter, Cormorant, King Fisher,  Herons and Bishops.  We occasionally saw a monkey or two jumping from tree to tree. 

As we passed the high banks of the river rises above our heads to a good 3 meters above the water line (the Sunday’s River is the fastest flowing river in South Africa when it is in flood), it was time to make a well deserved pit stop.  We all jumped out, took some refreshments and headed up the trail to learn more about the vegetation in the area.  Our guide had so much knowledge and we were well looked after the whole day.  Our River Safari had to come to an end and 2.5 hours later we found ourselves back in the Safari vehicle, canoes loaded and heading back to Crisscross Adventures HQ.  A morning well spent and highly recommended for all ages, big and small, experienced or not.   

Then came the time to get back onto solid ground and we soon found ourselves on the back of a steel steed.  After fitting some safety gear (helmets and goggles provided), we had a run down on how to operate these machines.  In no time we were off and ready to explore.  In a single file down the public road, we made our way to a safe space where we could play on a course that was set out to enjoy at your own pace.  The course is easy to navigate and does not have any real obstacles.  It is suitable for beginners as well as children.

By now we all felt a bit braver and we were ready to head out to the more advanced trail along the river.  This trail has a bit more challenges in some rocks, stumps and narrower pieces with slopes.  It is here that we had great fun and spent a bit of time playing like children.  Safety is always a priority and even though you do have some free reign to do as you wish as long as you stay on course, the guide is by your side and is keeping a watchful eye on you, knowing where is troops are all the time.

Our session soon came to an end and it was time to head back.  Driving back to Crisscross Adventures HQ, the thought dawned on me that this truly is a hidden gem.  The staff is very friendly, premises are extremely clean and gear is in good condition.  The service you receive is of top quality and it makes your time just so much more pleasant.  With it only being one hour’s drive from Port Elizabeth, this is a welcoming addition to a day out in Addo Elephant National Park. 

Criscross Adventures Tour options:

•  Addo Elephant Park Tour
• Addo River Safari
• Addo ECO Quad Biking
• Addo Mountain Hike
• Addo Fishing Tours
• Sandboarding & Beach Safari

Several other packages are available.

* This article is based on the Addo Adventure Tour Package

*Sponsored post*

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We came across a brown sign at a turn-off that just says Karel Landman Monument.  That is it.  So this was the indication for us to put on your indicator and turn.

We were not quite expecting this type of structure for a monument!  Well maybe I am old school but a monument in my mind is sort of a subdued grey stone structure and not a huge ocean blue structure!

Now who was this Karel Landman, because I mean to have a famous architect like Gerard Moerdijk design such a structure and plonk it down here in the green scenery near Alexandria you must be quite well-known?  I was scratching my memory to find something familiar from my history lessons from school about Karel Landman, but nothing came to the fore. 

Landman was one of the key figures in the 1838 Groot Trek. 

He was a farmer in the area but clashes with locals were on the increase and he decided to sell his farm and head to the interior.  He led a travelling party of about 180 souls consisting of 39 families.   They trekked around Lesotho and met up with another trekker Gerrit Maritz – now at least I can remember him from my history lessons!  – where after they settled in Natal.  On our visit I have learnt that Landman later on became the administrator of Port Natal (nowadays Durban).   

Now as in many cases in the Afrikaner history there was disagreement. This time it was on where this monument should be located and the two Dutch Reformed Church councils who contributed to the fund raising agreed to place it on this koppie of the border of both councils which is why this globe sort of sit in the middle of nowhere.

Walking around this massive globe with a diameter of 5 meter it amazed me to see all the detail of very small, sometimes never heard of, little islands from the Pacific Ocean dotted on the map. Moerdijk, surely impressed me with his accuracy in geography.

On the day of our visit entry to the site was free of charge.

Coordinates:
33°34’42.89″ S 26°09’42.81″ E

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As the interest in motor sport runs deep in our veins we have visited a couple of motor museums in Europe in the past.  This is no Porsche Museum or Alfa Romeo museum that spread over several floors and hosts any model that  you can think of and more.  This is rather an intimate display of loved Volkswagen products on the premises of the factory located at 130 Algoa Road in Uitenhage.

In  the “Meet the Beetles” area you will meet Herbie from the movies who needs no introduction.  Delilah which is in pristine condition with no plastic surgery done and less than 1 000 km on the clock.  Delilah starts her history on 2 February 1972 at a price of R1 848.  It appears she was part of a divorce settlement agreement however her first owner did not have a driver’s license so she was put in storage for 24 years until her owner passed away.  Since she was put on the auction block in Petrusville (yes, I had to go and Google to find Petrusville) Delilah found her way to Uitenhage and are well looked after currently.

Then there is Matti, which is the youngest ever Beetle in South Africa.  He was the very last Beetle that rolled off the production line on 18 January 1979.  Being last on the production line Matti was fitted with all sorts of special accessories.  This is just three of the personalities in “Meet the Beetles” range.   Jeroen, fitted with sand tracks and jerry cans, also has an interesting story to tell from travels across the Sahara.

The rally Polo in the prominent green and blue colours also caught the eye.  The South African Rally Championship scene was dominated by Volkswagen from 2005 starting with a winning streak  by the legendary Jan Habig with navigator Douglas Judd and ended in 2010 with Enzo Kuun and Guy Hodgson as navigator.  These are but a few impressive Volkswagen accomplishments. 

But this is South Africa and there are many, many more interesting stories to be told out there.  Beetles, Golfs and nowadays Polos tend to have interesting lives and legends to tell, especially if they had a student life once upon a time.  We would like to hear your interesting stories so drop us a comment at the bottom of the post.

For the younger and inquisitive ones there is an interactive area where they can learn about pistons and crankshafts and try their skill on a rally car or observe a science experiment.  I will say it is good value for money if you keep in mind that the entrance fee is only R5 for kids. 

HOURS:

Weekday 08:30 to 16:00 and every first Saturday of the month from 10:00 to 13:00.

ENTRANCE FEE: 

R10 per adult and scholars and pensioners R5. Remember to prebook your factory tour.

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The lighthouse was originally built in 1861 and the first lighthouse keeper was Charles Hammond.  The cottage next to the lighthouse was erected for Hammond’s family in 1865.  Hammond must have enjoyed a lush green scenery from the top of the lighthouse.  However, today the view of the city is quite different.  The lighthouse was decommissioned in 1973 as there were too many city lights interfering with its visibility. 

If you look towards the sea you have a full view of the harbour and its activities that is always fascinating. On the day of our visit there was a huge car carrier busy loading vehicles.  It looked like a giant ant trial as the cars were rolling onto deck and then suddenly my travel brain kicks in and I am wondering to what part of the world are they being shipped to.  Shucks, it sucks to have a travel addiction!

As we circled the lighthouse tower we spent some time identifying all the beautiful historic buildings and churches of the older parts of the city.  I then realised that I need to update my bucket list to include some more of these historic places.

The Donkin Reserve is quite popular with tourists and forms part of the wider Route 67 trail that criss-cross the city.

Today Hammond’s little cottage houses a visitor information centre operated by Nelson Mandela Bay Tourism.  Pop in and the friendly ladies of The Bay will help you with information on what to see and do, whether it be a quick or extensive visit to area, they will know what you can attend, do and see.

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At a function at the Boardwalk Hotel in Port Elizabeth on Monday, Angelo Swartz, who will soon take over from Conrad Isaac as the SPAR EC managing director, said they were ready to strengthen their commitment to cleaning up the environment. These are no empty promises as SPAR EC has sold 4.3-million fewer plastic bags since the launch of the campaign in April 2018 compared to the corresponding period the previous year.

However, both Isaac and Swartz agreed they needed to continue their commitment to the project in collaboration with various parties. In outlining their plans, Swartz said it was something they could not do on their own and invited role-players from all walks of life to join them.

So here is our chance to join SPAR Eastern Cape in making South Africa green again. Upon the launch of Phase II this coming weekend, SPAR Eastern Cape will run a promotion on Saturday (July 13) where customers at SPAR stores will be given a free paper bag for every 10 plastic bags they provide. So come on, bring your plastic bags, I promise you spring cleaning has never felt this good! Paper bags is the thing these days. We will definitely be joining in to collect a few paper bags at our nearest SPAR.

As if awarding you with biodegradable paper bags are not enough, SPAR is calling upon the community to come up with ideas that can make a difference. They are committed in such away that they even offer R250 000 in prizes for initiatives from the community. So make your voice heard. Let them have your 2 cents worth. It is now the time to shine. All corporates, small businesses, schools, tertiary institutions and customers – no matter how big or small – your idea might be THE one! Let’s get sharing.

“Why is it only me that has to do my part?” you might ask. Well, Swartz also identified other areas where they would focus, such as continuing to work with suppliers to reduce single-use plastic in the packaging of products. Besides Saturday’s promotion of 10 plastic bags for a free paper bag, he said they would be setting up regular promotions with suppliers in which, by buying certain products, customers could qualify for paper bags. “We don’t want to put all the cost of alternative packaging onto the customer so this will be a way to encourage them to try a better option.”

It is time that we shop smarter. If we can influence the suppliers in using smarter, greener packaging, everyday rushed life will be so much simpler in that we do not have to read labels or ponder on the manufacturing and packaging of single-use plastic anymore. By supporting SPAR Eastern Cape’s STOP Plastic campaign, you are taking that step. You are ensuring that life will become simpler and more sustainable for years to come.

Thank you SPAR Eastern Cape! Thank you suppliers! But most of all, thank you fellow customers on supporting the STOP Plastic campaign.

I’ll see you on Saturday (13 July 2019) at your nearest SPAR!

TOGETHER WE CAN!

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The Gamtoos Valley is quickly becoming one of our favourite places to explore. It was thus a no-brainer to spend Felicity’s birthday in the citrus capital of the Eastern Cape. Except, this time around there were no citrus involved, but instead we discovered another secluded campsite not to far off the main road.

After spending a night in Baviaanskloof, it was time to meet the parents for a weekend camping and spoils for mom on her birthday. So after stopping of at Tolbos (more about this quaint little “padstal” later) to pick-up the keys, I was on my merry way to meet them for a quick light lunch and catch-up before heading into the “no signal” zone.

Gonjah (the indigenous word for grasshopper) is a secluded bush camp, 9km from Patensie, situated on the banks of a small little creek running right through the middle of the camp. The campsite has 4 ablution blocks, each with a hot shower (gas geyser) and a flush toilet. Situated under the big old yellowwood trees, Gonjah is covered in shade almost all day as the sun only reaches the bottom of the valley after midday. Here you find peace and quiet for your soul. With no cellphone reception, you will have plenty of time to appreciate the Knysna Loeries and other bird life that is in abundance in this few square meters of paradise.

As a family we always look for some activities to do together and Gonjah 4×4 is just the thing for that. On Sunday morning we headed out to enjoy a morning exploring a bit further. The turning around point would be the lookout over the Grootrivier River and the rest of the Cockscomb Mountains. It is also at this point that you will find a Geocache, which was a bonus for us, as we love looking for little treasures. The route is an easy, but rocky one. You traverse farmland and fynbos and with the fires that burnt in the area some time ago, the hard, black Protea bushes might be an unwelcoming surprise to a neatly cleaned new SUV. However, if you can bear with the bumpy ride and not get lost along the way (the markers for the 4×4 route is not at all clear), you will be rewarded with breathtaking views. We suggest that you follow our example and pack a picnic basket and coffee to spend some time at the top of the valley. The route up to the valley took us 2 hours at a leisurely pace without getting lost or diverting off the path. No real off-road skills needed. With two or three inclines on route, you simply will have to stick to what you know about your vehicle to succeed.

We only had one night’s stay here and could have easily stayed over a second night, especially given the competitive pricing. It was unfortunately time to pack up camp and head over to Tolbos for our last and final lunch of the weekend. A true birthday celebration, just the way we like it in the peace and quiet of nature. At Tolbos we met the owner of Gonjah and Tolbos Restaurant (Hetsie Scheepers) and spend quality time chatting and reminiscing about Africa and our journeys we undertook over the years. Hetsie is a seasoned traveler and it is clear that she has a passion for the outdoors and for people. It is thus no surprise that Tolbos Restaurant situated in Patensie is a popular stop-over for motorbikers and adventurers alike exploring the Baviaanskloof and passing through the Gamtoos Valley. The shop at Tolbos stocks a large variety of hand-crafted products. Here you will find anything from preserves to homemade pies. Hetsie and her friendly staff also serves the most delicious meals for the ravenous bikers to the light eater who only wants a snack. Hearty meals plated in a high-quality restaurant manner will surprise you and you will leave here on a full tummy, licking your fingers and wanting more.

Another two establishments in the Gamtoos Valley which you can add to your travel list. A friendly warning: you might want to add another hour or two, or even an extra day, to your itinerary. These places are bound to take your heart.

Just a little bit extra:
• Gonjah also has a fully equipped chalet
• There is a petrol station in Patensie
• Only high clearance vehicles will make it to the campsite (my VW Polo did not)
• Make sure you have a bite to eat at Tolbos – their food is fantastic and the hospitality is really something
• If you are planning to do the 4×4 route, we will happily provide you with some waypoints to easily find your way to the top

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