You can start the trip at any point and travel in any direction.  It all depends on how you feel and where you are staying. 

Our starting point will be in George at the St Marks Cathedral at the top end of York Street.  Travelling towards the mountain you will find this little Anglican church on your right-hand side.   Some of the interesting facts is that the stained-glass windows came all the way from Germany.   It was recovered from a church in Germany during the French Revolution, brought to England and then found its way to South Africa.  The church dates back to the period of 1850 and is the oldest of the three churches that you will visit today.

In 1948 Queen Elizabeth also paid a visit to the cathedral on her Royal visit to the Union of South Africa.

Heading east towards Knysna you will make a stop in the charming village of Belvidere to visit the Holy Trinity church which originates from 1855. 

In early 1848, soon after Bishop Gray arrived in Cape Town, two affluent English-speaking Settlers from Knysna – Thomas Duthie and William Newdigate – road to Cape Town to impress on the Bishop the need of a clergyman in the region. The Bishop’s stone masons (Alexander Bern, Alexander Lawrence and his brother James) set out on 27 May 1851 and for the next six months stone was blasted from a nearby quarry and brought to the site. By the middle of 1852 all the stonework was completed and they could begin with the roof, In 1853 the church opened for its first service. The consecration however had to be delayed until 1855 when Bishop Gray visited Knysna again.

After this turn right onto the N2 and head into Knynsa.  Here you will visit the St George’s Church in the main road. 

John Rex laid the foundation stone of this church in 1849 built on land donated by his father, George Rex, the founder of Knysna.   Construction of the church commenced in 1850 based on a plan adapted by Sophy Gray.  Two Scottish stonemasons, Lawrence and Bern, were commissioned to build the church.    

The church is open for private prayer on weekdays 08:00 – 15:00.

GPS coordinates:  S 34° 02.090 E 023° 03.021

Carry on with the N2 towards Plettenberg Bay. The Sophy Gray church with the loveliest setting is arguably St Peter’s in Plettenberg Bay. The church is situated close to a grove of trees and overlooks the ocean and the distant Tsitsikamma Mountains and is within easy walking distance from the town centre. You may also note that Saint Peter’s is built of a random selection of stones. Noteworthy features are the buttresses set at right angles to each corner of the west wall and the scissors truss roof.

GPS coordinates:  S 34° 03.249′ E 023° 22.463′

Sophy was a busy woman and designed about 53 churches scattered all over South Africa.    She was the first woman to practice architecture in South Africa, and one of the earliest to do so in the world. No mean feat for a woman who was a wife during the Victorian era, and a mother to five children.

There are also some other interesting churches to visit in the Garden Route. Have a look at San Ambrosio church in the forests of Knysna.

—oOo—

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Now our family are not sea people at all, but this trip however was on our to do list for some time, but somehow, we never got around to do it.  We prefer the bush and greenery of the forest if we have a choice but are ALWAYS open for something new and eventful.   

Back to our sea expedition.  As always, we arrived a bit early so there was enough time before the trip to use our coffee vouchers at nearby Trinity Coffee.  This gave us enough sustenance to be happy on our expedition. 

The welcome and safety briefing was done efficiently and professionally by the friendly lady in the office.  Life jackets on.  Off we go.  Following the history of Knysna I have always read about the treacherous exit/entry route through the Knysna Heads.  With our very competent skipper this was never an issue. How beautiful is the Knysna Heads viewed from the sea!

Once through the Heads the first thing that we spotted was a Cape fur lazily lolling in the swell against the backdrop of interesting cave formations.  We were the only locals in our group and there was great excitement from the tourists when the dolphins picked up our boat and accompanied us on our journey to Buffels Bay in search of some elusive whales.  Luck was not on our side today even though the whale spotter on land also tried his best to find the elusive giants of the sea.  The whale season was at its end and closing the next day.  They must have moved on already.  To be in the presence of a pod of dolphins was more than rewarding for us.

While cruising along the coastline some seagulls also came closer to have a look if we had something interesting on the boat for them.   What a surprise when we entered a little cove and saw a cave with hanging stalactites and a rock formation rising from the sea that reminds me of a mini Krabi.  I never knew that there is such beauty just around the corner from where we live.

Back on land we were greeted with some nice warm towelettes to wipe the sea spray from our faces while enjoying some popcorn to celebrate the ocean sights.  A morning well spent and recommended to all.  Thank you, Ocean Odyssey.

To make your booking follow the link to Ocean Odyssey’s website  https://www.oceanodyssey.co.za

*Sponsored post*

– – – – – – – – – – –

There’s no question dolphins are smarter than humans as they play more.   —  Albert Einstein

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So, what is a turn table all about?

Or before we go there, why am I writing about a turn table of all things under the sun?  Because I think it is worthwhile to write about it as it is not something often seen in South Africa.  I discovered this one by accident in the beautiful town of Knysna, next to the waterfront at an almost forgotten spot next to a parking lot.    On your next visit in Knysna head over to this GPS location to see it:  S 34° 02.393 E 023° 02.654 .

According to Wikipedia a railway turntable is a device for turning railway rolling stock, usually locomotives, so that they can be moved back in the direction from which they came. This is especially true in areas with economic considerations or with a lack of sufficient space.

Sadly, this is one of the features that became defunct when the Outeniqua Choo Choo stopped to operate between George and Knysna due to flood damages to the railroad. 

I also think there are not many countries in the world where you still find a train turn table.  Do you know of one?  It will be nice to see where in the world you can still find these structure so leave a location in the comments section and let’s see if we can build a trial of turn tables around the world. 

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It was time to broaden our horizons and travel to Knysna for the experience.  And what an experience it was!    The setting at The Cabin at Simola was exquisite with a view over the estuary to the one side and the haunting beauty of the Knysna forest on the other side, while sipping on some handcrafted gin. Life cannot get any better!

The story of how the husband and wife team of Karel and Chantal started off in Worcester distilling gin in their living room to where they arrived at the name of Phantom for their gin is truly an inspiring story interlocked with all the mysteries the Knysna forest has to offer.  This includes the effort they had put in to create a gin that reflects the dark waters at Jubilee Creek to the elusive Phantom moth, that you will only find when you know where to look for it. This is also the in the logo on the bottles. 

The whole process from start to finish was explained in layman’s terms from how and where they acquire the juniper (worth mentioning that only the best is imported from Italy) and other local botanicals, the distilling process, the colouring of the gin to the pairing of lime, ginger and rosemary. 

To compliment this experience the speaker of the night was none other than the interesting personality of Gareth Patterson, currently residing in the town of Knysna, and an avid wildlife protector and activist.   He reflected on his life and work, starting with his story in Kenya when working closely with George and Joy Adamson.  He also enlightened the audience about his odyssey to uncover some myths and (un)truths about the Knysna forest elephants after the recent Carte Blanche episode on the same subject.  If you listened carefully, and know the forest, he secretly gave away some hints where the elephants roam in the forest.   Gareth is such a down to earth person with an outstanding passion for especially lion and elephant in his heart.   To hear about his passion and personal views on the elephants watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeXm3NvhF_Y 

It was indeed an interesting experience and it is an enriching experiencing to attend their next gin tasting presentation.  Have a look at their website http://www.phantomcraft.co.za.  They are also busy on Instagram and Facebook.  So, head over there and press the like button to receive the freshest news from the gin bottle!

The elusive Knysna elephants, the tannin coloured waters and the rarely seen Phantom moth truly captures the spirit of Knysna!

The expert says:

Gin: You will have less of a hangover the next day if you drink good quality gin

Elephants:  Do not go and search for the elephants, they will come and find you if they want to

—oOo—

The elephant never gets tired of carrying its tuskk — African Proverb

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The Knysna Literary Festival, hosted by Pam Golding, celebrated its 10^th year in 2019.  Although living around the corner from Knysna I never even knew this festival existed.  So, what do you learn?  That you are never too old to discover new things.   Sounds a bit like travelling to me; you keep on discovering new things.

The two lovely ladies of the Travelbucket team was invited to the event where Tony was speaking at the Knysna Turbine Boutique Hotel and Spa on Thesen Island in Knysna. The invite to attend was extended as personal guests of him, even though I only met him the Friday before the event! 

Apart from being an author who researches his books extensively he is also very concerned about nature and the conservation thereof.  He works closely with various groups in this field and checks and re-cheks his facts with organizations like Rhino Revolution in Hoedspruit Rhino Revolution who knows their stuff and are passionate about what they do.  Taking the lead and posing questions were Andrew from the Game Ranger Association, accompanied by his dog Tuli (like in Tuli Madonsela) who, is also a celebrity on her own, in what she contributes to the conservation scene.

Like Tuli there are more canine heroes out there.  Did you know that in Skukuza camp in the Kruger National park there is a memorial garden for the hard-working dogs of the Kruger? (Browse the site for more on this).

Even though he is a very  successful writer, and has travelled the world, he is very modest and, as he calls it, “always appreciate it when people show up when he speaks”.  How can you not show up to listen to this interesting character, doing a Parkrun (ending in third place overall) in the morning, rocking up a few hours later and speaks passionately about a variety of topics ranging from dog breeds to the war in Afghanistan, travelling, a Land  Rover and ending up with conservation?   On top of that he still thinks of throwing in some tips on writing as well.

This was also the opportunity to obtain a signed copy of the newly released book “The Scent of Fear”.  It is Tony’s 16^th creation on Africa and its wildlife intermingled with a dog flavor.  A lot of the research for the book was done
with the help of Canines for Africa (www.K94A.org).   I have to catch up on some reading on my next trip!

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At first you will think this is all about bikes, but while browsing through the display you will notice there is much more than wheels to this living museum (if you want to call it that).  You will notice the passion, the history and a story behind each bike on display.

The Motorcycle Room is Colin Studen’s happy place.   He takes old and new bikes which were heading for the dumpster, regardless make and model, and turn it into a memory (like the one of a kind model, Copper).

It is his happy place and not only filled with his happy memories, but also happy memories of every boy, no matter the age, that visits the room.  When we visited on hubby’s birthday I kept an eye on the expressions of fellow visitors.  It was nice to see how faces lit up on recognition of some favourites and memories flooding back of their first 50s when they were still young and reckless, moons ago, and quite often you will hear a father saying to the boy at his side “when I was your age we ….”

This is not a place only for rare and spotless bikes that is showcased, but things close to your heart if you are a motor cycle enthusiast.  This is a room where the bikes get used, are loved and are restored with tender love.  This is a place where the bikes go out onto the road and the rider still have some fun with  it.  This is a room filled with passion.

And, as Colin says in his own words, if your old friend from yesteryear is not there at the moment, keep on coming back. You might just find him/her (I do not know what you call your motorbike) one day.  Colin is always on the look-out for that special find tucked away in an old barn, covered under dust and rust that he can turn into something special.

In one corner there is soft couches and a heap of magazines and books which you can browse through while having a cup of coffee – anything from a bike manual to some interesting magazines.  This space is a happy place.

The Motorcycle Room is a place of memories and old two-wheeled friends that you wish you never parted with, but sometimes unfortunately had to part with (as we know that life sometimes throws a lemon or two at you and you have to depart with good things in life).

Just go!  Tell your story or listen to someone else’s story.  You will always find a story at the Motorcyle Room.

Entrance fee on our visit:  R100 per person.

Where:  Thesen Island, Knysna

Time budget:  I think more or less 1.5 hour will be enough

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Along the route you will find a couple of picnic spots with the beautiful names like Valley of Ferns, Ysterhoutrug and Diepwalle.  In the shade of some indigenous trees at Ysterhoutrug picnic spot you can light a fire for a braai as there are designated areas.  This is also a good stop for the children to stretch their legs as there are basic toilet facilities and water tanks to wash their hands.

When you arrive at the top you can, on a clear day, enjoy a 360-degree view of the surrounding area.  If you know the area you can identify the Knysna Heads as well as some other features like Robberg towards the Plettenberg Bay area. Take note that on a rainy day Spitskop will be covered in clouds and mist and you will not be able to enjoy the view.

But you will ask why  is this spot important?  In the woodcutters’ era Spitskop used to be a fire station manned by an Italian, Guiseppe Sciocatti, who kept a beady eye on fires in the area.  Guiseppe was one of the descendants of Italian immigrants that was lured to the forest to farm with mulberries in a silk trade venture, but things did not work out well for the Italian families.  Yet another interesting story for another post.

If you put the following (S 33° 54.723 E 023° 08.229) coordinates into your GPS you will experience this amazing view.  Remember the golden rule is to see all and only leave your footprints for the next visitor to enjoy.

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George Rex was rumoured to have been the illegitimate son of George III (Prince of Wales at the time) and a Quaker girl, Hannah Lightfoot. The legend is that he was sent to the Cape Colony to avoid a Royal embarrassment.

Rex, who settled on the farm Melkhoutkraal, also contributed to the economy of Knysna as he was a timber merchant and trader and played a major role in the development of the town and the surrounding area.

Whilst the grave is no great sight to behold, it can be found close to the N2 and is easily accessible for a quick visit.  Heading towards Plettenberg Bay you will find the grave nestled between trees.  As you leave town take a turn right into Plover Road and immediately left on a small dirt road leading up to this historical site.

If you have a GPS you can find it at:  S 34°02’33.0, E 23°04’43.0

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So here is the story.

Back in 1886 Millwood was a bustling gold mining town patched together by the dreams, greed and hope for riches that comes with gold digging.  The rumour of gold was enough to draw people from wide and afar.  Yet, after no substantial gold-bearing reefs were found Millwood was reduced to a ghost town amongst the ferns.  Today the only buildings that are left of this once booming time is Moterolli’s coffee shop and the Pitt Street Cottage with its yellowwood floors and ceiling next to it that offers accommodation.

Sipping a coffee at Moterolli

The gold rush started when Ruigtevlei farmer, James Hooper, found a small gold nugget in the tributary of the Karatara River.  Soon the word spread and the scene was set.   Promising traces of alluvial gold were found in the creeks of the Millwood forest.  This was enough to lure prospectors from around the globe unfazed by the fact that the Cape Government did not want to approve any prospecting, because productivity had not been properly assessed.

From a bygone era

Nevertheless by 1885 almost 2 000 claims had been pegged and soon tents were replaced by corrugated structures.  A banking agent, six hotels, post office, shops, a music hall and several boarding houses sprang up.  And eventually in 1887 the government had no choice but to officially declare Millwood a goldfield since about 40 mining syndicates were active in the area.

The relics of Bendigo Mine

But the promised massive reef strikes never materialized and Millwood turned into a ghost town almost overnight.  Mining companies became bankrupt and miners left to find their luck somewhere else.  The goldfield was finally deproclaimed in 1924.

Old mining equipment

While sipping at my coffee on the stoep of Materolli it is hard to imagine that this was once a bustling mining town.   Slowly but surely mother nature is claiming back her stake as rust takes its toll on the equipment and the forest ferns creeps in everywhere …

This is part of the magic of the Knysna forest and why I love my part of the world!

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